Tuesday, November 19, 2024

Akiya Coast Ama Island


The Akiya Coast is a section of scenic coastline in the northwest of Ama Island.


Some of the inlets on the island are home to what I believe are oyster farms, though they could be another form of shellfish farming.


There are also numerous fishing harbours.


Like the rest of the Oki Islands, the sea is incredibly clean and clear, ideal for swimming, snorkelling, and diving.


Ama is the third-largest of the islands that make up the Oki Islands in the Sea of Japan off the coast of mainland Shimane, four of which are inhabited.


Collectively the Oki Islands are a UNESCO Global Geopark and so there is lots of explanatory signboards, in English, of the volcanic geology you can see.


 The Akiya coastline is not quite as dramatic as some of the other sites like theKuniga Coast or Candle Rock, but is nonetheless picturesque, with views across to Dogo, the largest of the islands.


Apparently the site is being marketed as a "powaa supoto" for lovers as the offshore rock formation has an opening that is shaped like a heart when viewed from one end of the beach, and also because a nearby shrine has a myth of a goddess giving birth here.


The previous post in this series was on Tengawa no Mizu Spring.



Sunday, November 17, 2024

Hakozakigu Shrine

 


Hakozaki Shrine was founded in 923 when the wakemitama, divided spirit, was enshrined here in Hakata after being brought from the Daibu Hachiman Shrine in what is now Iizuka.


By the 12th century it had become the Ichinomiys, the highest ranked shrine in the province.


During the first Mongol Invasion in 1274 the shrine was burned down.


When the shrine was rebuilt the Emperor Kemeyama sent a scroll with the message "May the enemy nations prostrate themselves (in defeat)" The carved sign above the main gate has this inscription in a copy of the emperors own hand. There are however various theories about exactly which emperors sent the inscription first, and when. 


The shrine burned down several more times during wars, and when Hideyoshi had his campaign to subdue Kyushu he made Hakozaki Shrine his headquarters.


The main gate, photo 1 above, and several buildings are all Important Cultural Properties and date to the mid 16th century when the shrine was rebuilt by Ouchi Yoshitaka.


The current carving of the inscription above the gate dates from 1573 when the gate was rebuilt.


The shrine covers a very large area and is quite spacious, though paintings show that prior to 1868 there were many pagodas and other Buddhist structures within the ground.


Originally just a short distance from the sea, as the land has encroached on the sea the road leading to the shrine from the water has gotten longer.


Being a Hachiman shrine, the primary kami are Ojin, Jingu, and Tamayorihime.


In the penultimate photo below, a red fence encircles a pine tree known as the Box Pine. It is said that when Ojin was born, not far away in the hills overlooking what is now Fukuoka, his umbilical cord was placed in a box and buried on this spot.


Hakozaki means "Cape of the box".


I visited early in the morning of  76th day of my walk along the Kyushu 108 temple Pilgrimage. The previous post was on a small. local Kumano Shrine south of Fukuoka City


Friday, November 15, 2024

The Sesshu Garden in Autumn

 


Tuesday 25th November 2014 and I begin day 22 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage with a visit to Jyoeiji Temple in Yamaguchi City.


Jyoeiji is home to what is considered the greatest garden by Sesshu, so much so that it is simply called The Sesshu Garden.


Sesshu (1420-1506) was a famous Zen monk known mostly as a painter although he was also a garden designer.


Known for creating a distinctly Japanese style of ink-wash painting, his garden are less well known, primarily I think because the majority of the ones that survive are off the beaten tourist track in Yanaguchi, Shimane, and Oita.


I mentioned in an earlier post on the gardens at Komyozenji Temple in Dazaifu that the modern garden designer Mirei Shigemori was one of the initial inspirations for my interest in Japanese gardens, and the second major inspiration was the gardens of Sesshu.


Sesshu was born in what is now Soja in Okayama Prefecture, and the most famous legend about him concerns him as an acolyte.


As a young monk he did study in Kyoto for a while, and a very small garden attributed to him still survives there, but he spent most of his life outside of Kyoto.


The garden at Jyoeiji was designed and built for Ouchi Masanori. The Ouchi were a powerful family who ruled over Suo Province and were involved in the Onin War.


The Onin War, 1467 to 1477, laid waste to Kyoto and  is considered the beginning of the long Warring States Period.


Ouchi Masanori established Yamaguchi as haven of art and culture during this time, including inviting Sesshu.


The garden was built at Masahiro's villa, some ways from his main palace.


Later he established a temple on the site, and centuries later when the Mori Clan ruled the area they transferred Jyoeiji Temple here.


The front part of the garden is grassy with many stone arrangements.


Behind it is a large pond with numerous features.


It is a stroll-type garden with a path going around. At a high point is a gazebo overlooking the pond.


The west side of the garden is planted with bamboo and maple.


One of the main features is a large "dry waterfall" stone arrangement.


The pond features a Turtle Island, a Crane island, a boat stone, and a carp stone in front of the dry waterfall.


As well as the Sesshu Garden, the temple also has two karesansui gardens including one designed by Mirei Shigemori.


In this post I have concentrated on the autumn colours, but in later posts I will cover the karesansui gardens, the Sesshu garden in more detail, and some of the artwork and statuary at the temple.


Previously I posted on the autumn colours at Kyorinbo Temple in Shiga.


There is a lot to see in Yamaguchi City, including one of the Three Great Pagodas of Japan.



Thursday, November 14, 2024

Kumano Shrine Yokohama Fukuoka

 


This Kumano Shrine is located on an 80 meter high hill on the south side of the river mouth that was home to Imazu Port, a port linked with trade with Asia in ancient times.


The area is named after the long beach nearby, Yokohama, not the now famous Yokohama up near Tokyo.


Beside the steps leading up to the shrine is a small Inari shrine, and then near the top a Yakushi-do.


Other than this being a branch of the famous Kumano Sanzan in Wakayama, I can find on information about its history.


The site of tye shrine used to be a manufacturing site of stone axes in te early Yayoi Period, and axes from this site have been found around northern Kyushu, indicating early trade.


The previous post was on the Shisho Shrine across on the other side of the river mouth.