Shotokuji Temple 22 Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage

 

Shotokuji Temple in Sufu, lies at the foot of a hill that was covered by a largish castle and was the family temple of the lords of the castle and area, the Suo Clan The castle is ometimes called Sufu Castle, and sometimes Tobisu Castle

Some sources claim the temple was founded by Shotoku Taishi himself, or that the temple has a statue carved by him. More likely is that it was established around the same time as the castle in 1228.

The castle was one of 18 castles in Iwami to protect against Mongol invasion.  For 300 years the Suo clan ruled the area. When first built, the sea was much closer to the temple and castle, but over time the land was reclaimed and a small castle town existed. The sea is now 1km away.

In the late 16th century the castle fell to the Mori and the Suo became vassals of the Mori. After Sekigahara the Suo followed the Mori to Nagato and the castle was destroyed.

In 1866 the temple was used as a headquarters by a force of  Kishu Domain samurai and was attacked by Choshu forces in the Second Choshu Expedition. The temples pillars still have bullet holes from that engagement.

It is a Soto Zen temple with a Shaka Nyorai, the historical Buddha, as honzon.

The bell tower gate is quite impressive as are the pair of Nio guardians...

I visited at the start of day 35 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage, which coincided with day 16 of my walk along the Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage. Will explain in the next post.

The previous post was on the afternoon walk on the day before...

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Hinomisaki Western Cape of Shimane Peninsula

 

10,000 years ago, the Shimane Peninsula was a long narrow island running parallel to the coast of Izumo.

Looking at a map, it is not hard to imagine as the two large bodies of water, Lake Shinji, the 8th biggest lake in Japan, and Nakaumi, a large lagoon, take up much of the space where the sea used to be.

Even 1500 years ago, at the time of the first Izumo myths, much of what is now land was still estuary and marsh. The peninsula is the land at the heart of the Kunibiki Myth, wherein a kami pulls land from three other places to make the peninsula.

In pre-modern Japan, coastal shrines and temples used their lanterns as navigation guides for  ships at sea.

In the Meiji Period, with the opening up of more and more ports to foreign shipping, Japan began building western-style lighthouses.

In 1899, Hamada and Sakaiminato ports were opened to foreign trade, and in response, Hinomisaki Lighthouse was built.

It opened in 1903, and I believe it was the tallest lighthouse in East Asia at that time.

It remains the tallest lighthouse in Japan and was made an Important Cultural Property a few years ago. It is also included in the top 100 lighthouses of the world.

It is 43 metres high and built out of a cut-stone exterior and brick interior.

The light, which has the biggest lense in Japan , is 63 meters above sea level and can be seen from 40 kilometers away.

For a small fee visitors can climb to the top and enjoy the fantastic views.

There is a really nice walk around the cape....

With a major shrine nearby, the two small fishing villages have a collection of ryokan and minshuku and a modern, luxury Onsen

This visit was on mid-summers day, 2020, and I was on day 7 of my walk exploring the details of the Sea of Japan coastline....

The previous post was on the walk up the coast from Taisha Port...

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Tanoura Coast to Orii Coast

 

After the Tanoura Beach my route heads inland and then starts up towards another pass.

It's May so paddies are flooded and in some cases planted.....

Miniature farm machinery is one of the reasons rice is so expensive in Japan. Every farmer, who has a tiny farm , must buy machinery to plant and a different one to harvest. Each is used for just a couple of days a year. I my little village there is some sharing, but still Yanmar, Honda, etc are very profitable for a reason...

In many cases after the machine has planted humans must go in finish tings off....

A tiny narrow road over the pass..... I love these roads.... no traffic and wide enough....

Coming down into the tiny settlement of Imaura.....

Really, ormer settlement would be more accurate..... there was a couple of inhabited houses among the abandoned ones, but by now they too are abandoned.....

There is a substantial shrine, and a little harbour without any buildings....

The shrines name is Imoyama Shrine but I can find no sources on which kami are enshrined or any history.

It does have a kaguraden that is still in use, so I guess there are enough scattered farms in the surrounding mountains to support an annual matsuri.

There seems to be just a couple of small boats at the harbour, out of the water.

It is a popular spot for recreational fishermen ( and women)....

After climbing out from Imaura harbour I pass by the Orii Cliifs, top photo of this post. A little while later I look down on the Orii Coast and Mount Taima looms ahead.

Then I drop down to Orii Beach, well "protected" by lines of tetrapods. On the way down I pass another abandoned love hotel..... at Orii Station I hop on a train and head home.

The previous post was on the walk from Kamate to Tanoura...

if you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.