Hachiman Shrine & Makio Shrine in Yasaka

 

Day 9 of my walk along the Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage and during the morning I stop in at two noteworthy shrines.

Iwami is a remote region, and the area in the mountains now collectively grouped together as Yasaka Town is a remote part of that region. Though I have lived here for decades, this was an exploration for me...

The first shrine I reached was the Hachimangu in the area called Nakayasu after thebfamily that were installed in the area as local  administrators in the mid 14th century.

They served under various different lords until the mid 16th century when the Mori attacked and defeated them, then took over.

This Hachimangu was established as a branch of Usa Hachiman in the mid 15th century to protect the nearby castle. It became the tutelary shrine for ten villages in the area.

There are a pair of huge Sugi trees flanking the stairway, and a third up near the shrine buildings.

They are big enough to be protected and registered as Natural Monunments by the prefecture.

An older Tenmangu shrine was moved into the grounds in early Meiji.

With its Ryobu-style Torii, Makio Shrine, much further south, is quite picturesque. (top photo above)

Said to be founded in the early Heian Period, making it about a thousand years old, it was relocated to its current location in 1582.

 

Unusual is the combination of main kami, Izanagi, and Otoshi. Izanagi, well known as the male of the creator-kami pair with his sister/wife Izanami. Otoshi, one of Susano's sons, with association with rice harvest and Korean clans.

There is a kagura den, but it looks like it has not been used in a while....

The previous post was on the last temple I visited yesterday, and the place I stayed the night.

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Tsuda Hachimangu aka Mozukujima Hachimangu

Tsuda Hachimangu is right next to the train station, Iwami Tsuda. It is known locally by its old name Mozukujima Hachimangu

In earlier times, the site of the shrine was a small island in the mouth of the river and the villagers would collect a type of seaweed called mozuku.

This is a giant Hagoita, a kind of paddle used to play a Japanese game similar to badminton. Often decorated with kabuki characters or other auspicious figures, they became used as talismans for good luck, especially at new year.

One thing noticeable here is that the shrine is kept in good order and appearance. It is obviously well looked after.

Not sure if the ring on the ceiling is the same thing, but alongside the main shrine was a used chinowa, the grass ring used for parishioners to pass through for purification. When used, the circle is fresh green.

Another notable thing about this shrine was the large number of masks on display.

There are a couple of quite cool, large oni masks, a Susano, a single Tengu and then two pairs of tengu as well. All in all well worth a visit for me.

Another striking thing about the shrine is the large numkber of secondary shrines...

There is an Omoto Shrine which lists Kunitokotachi as the kami. It is one of the primordial kami and I suspect was named in the Meiji period. In the rest of Iwami Omoto is a local land kami.

There is an Inari Shrine visible in photo 6, and a Nakayama Shrine, once again listing Kunitokotachi.

There are two Ebisu Shrines, both enshrining Kotoshironushi, and one adding Omononushi also.

Finally, there is an Itsukushima Shrine.

The version of Hachiman here is Ojin, Jingu, and the three Munakata kami.

The final photo shows a Soreiden. This seems to be connected with ancestors and funerals, and as this area was part of the Tsuwano Domain at the end of the Edo Period, and the Daimyo of Tsuwano decreed that all people in the domain would have Shinto burials, it may date to that period.

The previous post in this series on day 33 of my walk along the Chugoku Pilgrimage, was on the walk to get here

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Dark & Stormy Kuroshio Coast

 

December 2nd, 2011, and day 21 of my walk around Shikoku on the Ohenro Pilgrimage begins under a cloudy sky, though the rain of yesterday has abated.

Kuroshio is the name of a north Pacific current that passes along the Pacific Coast of Japan.

Here at the southern extreme of Shikoku, where the current passes, there is also a town called Kuroshio, where I will mostly be today.

As usual I tried to stop in at every shrine I passed, but this one was too far off the main road so gave it a miss.

On this section of coast the sea was much calmer than yesterday evening when I reached the coast.

Passing through Ida Port I did visit the next shrine.

It is a Tenmangu enshrining the ancient courtier, Sugawara Michizane.

Often used by students praying for exam success, Tenmangu shrines increased somewhat in the late 19th century as a preferred "national" shrine....

There was no signboard so have no info on the history.

Nearby was Kannonji, a very small temple.

There was a tsuyado here, free lodgings for walking pilgrims, and I had thought about staying here but it got dark too quickly yesterday so instead of chancing it I stayed in a henro hut.

Next up a small Ebisu shrine. As kami for fishermen, Ebisu is very common on the coast.

While it is not actually raining, the air is more than damp.

The way ahead looks like darker , windier weather....

It costs a lot to have old cars disposed of in Japan, which is why in the countryside you can often see abandoned cars slowly begining to decompose...... very slowly....

This small shrine is a Yaku Shrine..... no details....

The Sunahama Museum is a little free museum on the beach.

The skeleton of a Minke whale was impressive....

Across the Minato River....

And then across the bigger Fukigami River...

The previous post was yesterday's walk over the mountains to reach the Kuroshio Coast.

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