Sunday, October 11, 2026

Demon Mummy of Daijoin

 


A small sign pointed up a narrow path between bamboo to a temple, the kind of invitation I find heard to resist.


A group of red-bibbed statues was reassuring...


But what I found why quite weird and a little disturbing...


It is said to be the mummified remains of an Oni. Mummified priests I had heard of but not yet seen.


The figure is about 1.4 meters tall seated and estimated to be more than 2m if standing. It has two small horns, sunken eyes, and an open mouth. It was purchased in 1925 and then donated to the temple. A cursory examination by  Kyushu University suggested it "may" be composed of a mix of human female and animal bones.


Daijoin is a vetry small temple and there were a couple of normal Buddhist statues....


The next big surprise was when I came down from Daijoin and crossed over the road I came to a huge temple.


This is Higashi Betsuin, the head temple of all Jodo Shinshu temples in Kyushu.


It was established in the late 17th century, but the current structures date to the mid-18th century but was rebuilt in 1880. It measures 28 by 25 metres. The gate is magnificent.


What I didn't know was that right next door is a similar, huge temple of the Jodo Sect, with a bigger main hall but a smaller gate. This day had produced two big surprises, but there was more to come.


The previous post in this series on my walk along the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage features an eclectic mix of sights seen on the rural walk to get here...


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Friday, October 9, 2026

Unjuji Temple 27 Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage

 


Unjuji is a very large Rinzai Zen temple dating to 1322.


The plaque bearing the name on the large, 2-storey main gate is said to be written by Emperor Go-Daigo.


After passing through the first gate, the Important Cultural Property Four Legged Gate, a long lantern-lined path then turns 90 degrees, and then the Main Gate, Buddha Hall, and Abbots Quarters all align in what is known as Zen style. This is common in Kyoto, but quite rare for a rural temple.


The two-storey main gate is quite impressive. On the second floor are rakan statues. The gate was built in the Edo Period but is in Kakamura Period style.


So many of the statues and buildings are covered in ofuda left by pilgrims


Further in are more statues covered in moss and ofuda, including a Sake Abstaining Jizo.


On the left is the Hojo Pond with its Yakushi-do


The lilies in the pond bloom from early to mid summer.


On the right is the small Kannon Hall.


It houses a Kannon noted for fertility and child rearing alongside a Jizo and a Manjushri. This is the hall that all the pilgrimas primarily come for.




By the side of the Kannon Hall is a curious statue I dont remember seeing anywhere else. It appears to be a Kannon holding a child that is sitting on the shoulders of another Buddha....




Next, one comes to the main hall.


Unusually, it has a stone floor and can be entered without removing shoes.


The honzon is a Nenge Misho Shakyamuni. This translates as "smiling and twirling a flower Buddha, and is a Zen thing referring to the wordless transmission of the dharma....


There is a delightful ceiling dragon painting.




The Imperial Messenger Gate leads into the huge Abbots quarters and the Founders Hall with a big garden behind.


Since this visit, a new Head Priest has taken over, and he has now created a raked gravel garden in the area seen below.


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Thursday, October 8, 2026

Honishibashi Residence & Gardens

 


Momen Kaido, Cotton Road, is a small historic district of Hirata that was once a bustling merchant area trading in cotton.


One of the oldest remaining houses is the Honishibashi Residence, the oldest part of which was built in 1750


The earthern-floored entrance foyer has a nice example of the local folk art, Isshiki Kazari.


As well as serving as the home and business premises, the Daimyo would stay here sometimes and so the inner parlour was used as his official reception room.


The gardens were constructed in the early Meiji Period.


The Sou no Niwa, pictured above, is located to the east of the inner parlour. There is a small tea room that alsolook out onto it.


The main garden, the Gyo no Niwa, is located to the west of the inner parlour.


Not surprisingly, it is an Izumo-style garden. The large stone is said to have been a gift from local fishermen after the Ishibashi family paid for the construction of a tunnel that greatly aided the fishermen


I visited in June and so caught the last of the azalea blossoms...


The previous post in this series on the delights of Matsu and Izumo focused on the views from Matsue's tallest building.


if you would like to subscribe by email just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published and made public. I post new content almost everyday, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the last ten posts.