A Walk from Koshigahama to Nagato-Oi

 

Late March, and the cherry blossoms are in full bloom on the Sea of Japan coast in Yamaguchi.

This was day 30 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage, and the for the next few days there would not be any pilgrimage temples to visit, but the route is along a spectacular section of coastline where the road is literally right next to the sea.

Koshigahama is home to a pretty large fishing port, but fish is not the only product harvested from the sea.

As well as squid hanging up to dry, there was a lot of wakame, a species of kelp, and widely eaten in Japan.

Spring is the primary harvesting season in Japan.

Looking up the coast at my route. The high mountain in the distance is Mount Takayama near Susa. I expect to be there in about 3 days.

have no idea what these tiny fishes are that are being dried.

Not a big fan of small, bony fishes, though I must admit i used to enjoy whitebait back in Cornwall.

I suspect this guy doesn't care less which kind of fish he gets to eat....

If its not cloudy or windy, then the sea here is usually clear and turquoise blue.

The train line from Masuda to Hagi also hugs the coast and so these views can be enjoyed from a slow train....

Oshima is the biggest of the islands visible most days. In good weather, Mishima, much further offshore, can be glimpsed in the far distance.

For the next few kilometers there are no houses or settlements until Oi.

The previous post was on the scenic Itsukushima Shrine on Myojin Pond in Koshigahama.

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Over the Mountains to the Sea Again

 

Leaving Kubokawa and temple 37 Iwamotoji, the route carries on south towards temple 38, a long way a away down at the tip of Shikoku, Cape Ashizuri.

It is December 1st, the twentieth day of my walk along the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage, and it's cool and damp with the clouds clinging to the forested mountain slopes and the rain intermittent.

It's not a day for dawdling and exploring.... I pass some small shrines but do not check them out...

Much of the way is narrow roads with little or no traffic, and a few times, tunnels replace what would have been passes in earlier times...

After the tunnel, it is pretty much downhill all the way...

The rain picks up a little..... I have now crossed over from Shimanto to Kuroshio.

By the time I reach the coast at a place called Saga, it gets windier too...

I take a break in a seaside park and cook up some oatmeal....

The park shelter is not enough to keep the rain and wind out, so I use my umbrella as a windshield...

The tiny stove I have runs on the little paraffin blocks used in restaurants..... with the tiny kettle they only weigh a few ounces, but I can make tea, coffee, soup, oatmeal, instant noodles, pretty much anywhere....

I carry on down the blustery coast....

I had heard there was a free place to stay not far away and I hope I can find it....

The previous post in this series on the space between the temples on the Shikoku Ohenro Pilgrimage was on the Kominka Cafe near to Iwamotoji Temple.

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Itsukushima Shrine Koshigahama

 

The Itsukushima Shrine in Koshigahama near Hagi is situated on the banks of Myojin Pond.

The pond is tidal but also contains freshwater, so species of fish and marine life from both ecosytsems can be found in it.

The pond is on the sandbar that connects Mount Kasayama, a small volcano, with the mainland.

The shrine was established by the second Mori Lord of the Hagi Domain, Tsunahiro, in 1686.

It is a branch of the famous Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima in Hiroshima, which had earlier been part of the Mori Domain.

Not sure what fish these are, but sea bream, parrotfish, mullet, rays, and sea bass can all be found in the pond.

The pond was previously known as Benten Pond and the original Benten Shrine is now a sub shrine of the Itsukushima. Bezaiten was considered a manifestation of Itsukushimahime.

Other sun shrines in the grounds include an Inari and a Konpira.

This was the start of day 30 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage.

The previous post was on the last part of my walk on day 29, across the Matsumoto River.

if you would like to subscribe by email, just leave your email address in the comments below. It will not be published or made public. I post new content almost every day, and send out an email about twice a month with short descriptions and links to the most recent posts.