More Fudo Myo at Nanzoin

Kurikara, the sword of Fudo Myoo, is often represented with a dragon wrapped around it. Occasionally Fudo himself is given a dragon head, like here at Nanzoin.

There were lots of Fudo statues at Nanzoin, as there were at the other temples nearby in the Wakasugi Mountain area. Like the other temples there was a waterfall surrounded by Fudo statues used for ascetic purification practises.

There was also a fudo altar within a cave, something else that is not unusual for Fudo altars.

As well as the numerous Fudo statues, and the largest bronze reclining Buddha, Nanzoin had a lot of other features which I will post next....

Sunset at Nameshi Dam

At the end of a very long first day of my walk over and around the Kunisaki Peninsula I stopped for the night on the banks of the reservoir behind Namiishi Dam.

I had now reached the high country in the middle of the peninsula by walking up one of the numerous valleys that radiate out from Mount Futago, and  the landscape was dramatic with features that made it an obvious site for early Yamabushi to inhabit.

There is a small park here, and that is where I spread out my sleeping bag....

All the posts of this days walk can be found by clicking here, though they will be in reverse chronological order.

Tomorrow I will pass over the high center of the peninsula and hopefully reach the east coast.

Fudo Myo at Nanzoin

This Fudo Myo statue is about 10 to 11 meters high and is located at Nanzoin in Sasaguri, Fukuoka.

Its the first temple on the Sasaguri 88 sacred places pilgrimage, a miniature version of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, but its not part of the Kyushu 108 temple pilgrimage, though I stopped in at the start of my 3rd day of the latter pilgrimage.

It's a Shingon temple, and Fudo Myo is particularly popular in Shingon, so its not surprising that there are a lot of Fudo statues there....

Otomeza Theater Mitarai

The Otomeza Theater in Mitarai on Osaki Shimojima is a fine example of a small provincial theater from early in the twentieth Century.

It was built in 1930 when the port had become less important than in the days of wind, but was still important as an "entertainment" area.

In 1950 it switched to being a movie theater, but following the outlawing of prostitution in 1956 the town went into serious decline and the theater closed. For a while it was used as a vegetable market.

It has been lovingly restored to its former glory and is a rare example of the kind of small theater that were found all over Japan. Like all thge historic sites in the town, entrance is free.

Biggest Reclining Buddha in Japan

Nehanzo, reclining Buddhas, are the least common pose for statues of Buddha in Japan. At Nanzo-in temple in Sasaguri, Fukuoka, there is what is certainly the largest bronze Nehanzo in Japan.

Its dimensions are impressive. 41 meters long, and 11 meters high, it weighs about 300 tons, more than three times as heavy as the Great Buddha in Nara, it is among the biggest bronze statues of the world.

It was completed in 1995 to house some of the historical Buddhas ashes which had been donated to the temple from Myanmar, where Nehanzo are much more common.

Nehan means "nirvana", and statues of the reclining Buddha depict him at the moment of his death when he entered Nirvana.

There is a lot more to see at Nanzoin which I will post soon....

2023 EDIT. I remember reading not long before the Covid pandemic hit that Nanzoin had reacted strongly to industrial-scale tourism, specifically cruise ship tour groups, with some restrictions on visitors. Apparently, any group visit must be arranged in advance, but for individual visits, there are restrictions on what clothing is allowed, and strangely that visible tattoos are not allowed.

The Grand Tour Colchester

I had never been to Colchester before, so was quite looking forward to visiting. It is often classified as the oldest town in England, known as Camulodunon before the Roman invasion.

Its most famous site is the Norman Keep, built on the ruins of a Roman temple. Boudica sacked the town, but it was rebuilt later though the Roman Capital was moved to London.

I was most impressed by the floral displays everywhere, especially the hanging baskets.

Lots and lots of half-timbered houses, one in particular still riddled with bullet holes from the Civil war.

The Okunoin on Mount Wakasugi

The Okunoin on Mount Wakasugi is in a cave just below the summit. It is here that Kukai, later known as Kobo daishi, practised austerities on his return from China.

Considering its remote location, a surprising number of people make the climb, though I suspect most have parked their cars at the Kannon-do just below.

there were many statues around the area including a Fudo Myo (it was Kukai who introduced this deity into Japan) and a Kurikara, the dragon sword of Fudo.

The Okunoin is on the south side of the peak and so all the snow had melted, but just above there was still snow...

Kubo Hachimangu

Kubo Hachimangu is a fairly major shrine in Onomichi.

Founded in the mid 9th Century, The enshrined kami, Hachiman, is composed of three different kami, the emperor Ojin, his mother Jingu, and then either his father, Chuai, or his wife.

According to local legend, Ojin visited the area during the twentieth year of his reign, which would have been in the 5th Century, though the mytho-histories of Japan claim it to be the 3rd Century.

There are several secondary shrines within the grounds, one of which is certainly and Inari shrine, though there was no information board at the shrine so I could not find out about the others.

Kitayama Shrine, Mount Wakasugi

Located right on top of Mount Wakasugi at about 660 meters above sea level, the maps and many people call it Kitayama Shrine, but it is really the Upper Taiso-gu shrine. The lower Taiso-gu I stopped in at on my way up the mountain.

Not surprisingly it seems to have the same set of kami enshrined as at the lower shrine, the main one being Izanagi, along with Amaterasu, and Hachiman.

All around the shrine are Buddhist statues and shrines as the Okunoin where Kukai supposedly practised austerities is in a cave just below the shrine. It was usually Buddhists or Yamabushi who established shrines on mountaintops like this.

There is a large, white statue of the mythical Jingu, mother of Ojin, and a curious statue of Daikoku with an extreme smile....