Hashikura Temple 4 Shikoku Fudo Myo Pilgrimage

 

While being temple number 4 on the Shikoku Fudo Myo Pilgrimage, Hashikura-ji is probably more well known for being temple 15 of the 20 "extra" bangai temples of the much more famous Shikoku Ohenro pilgrimage. However, it is also a temple of the Shikoku Kannon Pilgrimage, and the Awa Saigoku Pilgrimage.

It is located at 600 meters above sea level looking down on the Yoshino River valley that cuts right throiugh Tokushima.

The temple is accessible by a ropeway which offers a great view of the impressive Niomon gate on the way up.

The ropeway stops at the main level of the temple near the priests residence, and right next to it the Gomaden. Though it had been really sunny for a few days, it was late December and there was snow around the grounds.

According to the temple, Hashikiuraji has performed the goma ceremony twice a day, every day, since the temples founding.

It was founded by Kobo Daishi himself in 828 when he climbed the mountain. Hr had a vision of Konpira Daigongen and carved a statue of him.

Hashikiraji became the okunoin, or inner temple, of Konpira, the complex that since Meiji has been a Shinto Shrine.

Further along is a massive Bell Tower and the Heart Sutra Steps that lead up to the main hall.

With 278 steps, the same number of chracters in the Heart Sutra, when added to the steps from the Niomon up to this first level, in total the climb to the main hall has 769 steps.

This is just a little less than the 785 steps that lead up to the actual Konpira Shrine.

A major fire in 1769, and then another in 1826, destroyed almost all the buildings, so everything standing now dates back to the late Edo period.

It is a large complex with a lot to see, and relatively few visitors. There are a lot of nice carvings and statues and so I will do a post on them next.

The previous post in this series on day 5 of my walk along the Shikoku Fudo Myo Pilgrimage was on the interesting old house and museum across the river that documents the local tobacco industry.

Kumanohara Shrine Karatsu

 

Kumanohara Shrine is a small, but ancient shrine in what is now the Teramachi district of Karatsu in Saga.

According to the shrine legend it goes back to the mythical days of Jingu and her "invasion" of Korea.

While in this area, which at the time was pine forest, a great white light appeared and showed the direction for the sea journey to Korea, and so later some of her soldiers established Shiranui Shrine here.

Later, in the 7th century, the area was suffering an epidemic and so the locals prayed at the shrine for relief. 12 black birds with white breasts lined u in the trees at the shrine and emitted a white light, and from then on the epidemic subsided. The villagers were told the birds were messengers of the kami at Kumano and so the shrine was renamed Kumonohara.

The primary kami are therefore listed as Ketsumiko, Hayatama, and Fusumi, the three great kami of Kumano, otherwise known as Susano, Izanami, and Izanagi.

Also enshrined is Sarutahiko, Oyamatsumi, Ojin, and the spirit of Goro Kanda, a local ruler from the 8th Century. Within the grounds are an Awashima Shrine, and an Inari Shrine, which unusually has komainu rather than fox guardian statues

The previous post was on Daishoin the temple next door.

Genbudo Caves

 

The Genbudo Caves are not really caves, but are nonetheless intriguing geological phenomena.

They are cliffs of basalt formed into columns. In the Edo Period local people began quarrying it for buildimg materials and created the openings in the cliff face.

Created about 1.6 million years ago, following a volcanic eruption the magma cooled causing cracks forming polygonal columns.

Different sections of the exposed cliffs have named after mythical creatures, Genbu, Seiryu, Byakko, and Suizaku.

The area is a registered National Natural Monument.

The site is also part of the Sanin-Kaigan UNESCO Global Geopark.

Genbudo Park is located on the bank of the Maruyama River in northern Hyogo, a few kilometers south of Kinosaki Onsen.

It has its own JR station, but on the opposite bank of the river which necessitates a short ferry crossing. The park has a modern museum and cafe with its own entry fee.

The previous post in this series on attractions of the Toyooka area was on Mugiwara Zaiku, the local straw craft.

Daishoin Temple 81 Kyushu Pilgrimage

 

Daisho-in is located in the small Teramachi near Karatsu Station in downtown Karatsu.

These unusual statues are a complete mystery to me. The only reference I can find is that they are said to be in Korean-style. If anyone knows more please leave a comment.

The approach also has a nice pair of small komainu.

The honzon of the temple is a Fudo Myo. The Daishi statues in the main hall next to the fudo (top photo) was originally in Konpira Shrine on Shikoku and was moved here in 1885 after spending a couple of years at Zentsuji Temple in Shikoku.

The temple was originally called Daihoji and stood near Kishidake Castle. It burned down when the castle fell and was moved here in 1645 and renamed Daisho-in.

In the treasure hall, and only shown to the public once a year, is an 11-faced Kannon known as the Karatsu Kannon as it was originally enshrined in Karatsu Shrine. Originally claimed to have been carved by Gyoki, upon renovation it was discovered to have been made in the 14th century.

The temple is known for its Daikoku statue and is on a local Seven Lucky Gods circuit.

This was my last stop in Karatsu before heading up the coast towards Fukuoka. The previous post was on the oldest rice paddies in Japan.

Isotake Beach

 

Isotake Port is situated in small bay protected by a headland. On the seaward side of the ports residential area runs a narrow beach.

The beach runs up to a couple of small headlands. In the distance can be seen the Shimane Peninsula that I will reach in a couple of more days walking.

Inland Mount Sanbe is clearly visible. At 1,126 meters, it is the highest point in the former province of Iwami, and is actually classed as an active volcano, but has not erupted in historical times.

Like so much of the coastline of Japan, it has its fair share of concrete tetrapods protecting it, though to be fair on the Japan Sea side we have a lot of natiral coatsline left compared to the Pacific Side.

After these couple of headlands there is a long stretch of somewhat wilder beach.

This is called Isotake Beach and inland of it is the Isotake JR station and an agricultural settlement now cosidered part of Isotake.

The previous post in this series exploring the Sea of Japan coastline was on Isotake Port.

First Rice Paddies in Japan

 

No-one can know for sure exactly when and where rice was introduced into Japan, as this was in prehistory.

However, the Nabatake Site in Karatsu, Saga, has been identified by archeologists as the oldest known wet-rice farming settlement  so far discovered.

A new local history museum, the Matsurokan, display materials from the site as well as a reconstruction of a pit house and a group of paddies.

It is named after Matsurokoku, a place mentioned in the earliest Chinese records of Japan as the site where they landed on theoir way to the legendary Yamatai, home of "Queen" Himiko. It is believed that Matsurokoku was this area.

Certainly rice was introduced into Japan, along with so much else, including the bulk of Japanese Dna, through Northern Kyushu, the closest point to the Asian mainland.

All the info is only in Japanese, and I was surprised that given the modern Japanese obsession with rice that this place is not more widely known, celebrated, or visited.

I was exploring Karatsu before heading up the coast on day 73 of my Kyushu walk. The previous post was on the former Takatori Mansion.