Itsutsuji Fudo

 

Mount Fudo is only 350 meters high but has some of the best views in the whole of the Kunisaki area.

It is a rocky outcropping like many in the area and is fairly typical of the kind of spot that yamabushi are attracted to.

The main hall enshrines Fudo Myoo, and is also fairly typical of the Kunisaki area in that it is built into a cave.

There is a smaller hall built into another small cave and other statues scattered around the not easily accessible cliff faces .

I can find very little information about it except that it is considered part of the Kyu Sentoji Temple complex lower down the slope, so may date back as far as the 9th century. However, the buildings are in good condition and must have been reconstructed fairly recently.

It is, of course, part of the old Rokugo Manzan Yamabushi Pilgrimage route that is now closely followed by the Kunisakihanto Minemichi Long Trail that I am following on this first section of my walk along the Kyushu Fudo Myo Pilgrimage.

Just below is the statue Another Time by Antony Gormley that I posted about last time.

Bring a little higher than the statue the views are slightly more expansive.

As well as Himejima Island just off the coast, on a clear day Yamaguchi on Honshu is visible.

Shorenji Temple Takahashi

 

When I first came to Japan I was quite intrigued by temples and even large houses that had walls that reminded me of Japanese castles. I later learned that surrounding some castles some buildings would have been incorporated into a defensive system, and that some temples were actually armed institutions, but mostly it was due to steep slopes requiring retaining walls.

However, Shorenji Temple in Takahashi was built as a defensive structure but masqueraded as a temple because of the laws at the time.

During the Edo Period the Tokugawa Shogunate decreed that each domain could only have one castle and that all samurai must reside in the castle town built around the castle.

Also the decrees governing repairs to castle were very strict and in most cases severely limited the daimyo in what they could do.

Shorenji Temple was re-constructed on this sitein 1657 as a defensive structure to protect the southern approach to Bitchu Matsuyama Castle, but as it was a temple they seem to have gotten away with it. It was originally founded in 815 and was located in a different area. The Kannon Hall has a ceiling and door that came from a boat used by the Lord of Okayama Castle in the invasion of Korea in 1592.

The previous post in this series was on Tairyuji Yakushi Temple next door.

Miho Shrine

 

Miho Shrine is a major shrine located at the Eastern tip of the Shimane Peninsula and is the head shrine of about 3,000 Miho shrines throughout Japan.

It is also said to be the head shrine of all Ebisu shrines nationwide, though that is also claimed by Nishinomiya Shrine in Hyogo.

There are two quite distinct origins for Ebisu, one as the "leech child" born to Izanagi and Izanami, and the other as Kotoshironushi, one of the sons of Okuninushi in Izumo. The former si the basis for Nishinomiya Shrine, and the latter for Miho Shrine in Izumo. In early Meiji Period the government officially classified Ebisu as Kotoshironushi.

Miho Shrine was mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki, the 8th century local gazeteers published shortly after the more famous Kojiki and Nihon Shoki.

It seems quite possible that at first the kami Mihosumi was enshrined here but that later Mihotsuhime and Kotoshironushi became the two kami under the influence of the Kojiki and Nihnshoki.

Mihotsuhime is a wife of Okuninushi, and step-mother to Kotoshironushi.

Their twin hondens are in a unique architecture style and registered as Important Cultural Properties. They were constructed in 1813.

I have not noticed before at other shrines, so am not sure how prevalent the custom is, but above the entrance gate hang two Onusa purification wands.

Kotoshironushi used to go fishing often at his favorite spot on an offshore islet.

He was there when his father, Okuninushi, sent for him to consult about the offer from Amaterasu envoys to hand over the land to her descendants in what is known as the Kuniyuzuri myth.

This event is recreated in two unique festivals involving boats, the Murote Fune held on December 3rd involving two large canoes, and the Aoshibagaki held on April 7th.

The shrine also has an impressive collection of hundreds of musical instruments that have been donated over the centuries.

846 are registered as Important Tangible Folk Cutural Properties and include the first accordion and organ in the country

Often depicted carrying a Sea Bream, Ebisu is well known as a kami of fishing but also safety at sea, and prosperity in business.

Mihotsuhime, a daughter of  Takamimusubi, is known for abundant harvest, marital harmony, safe childbirth, prosperity of descendants, and music and dance.

Mihonoseki is a small port in a sheltered position that was used as a lay-over for the Kitamaebune ships in the Edo period.

Served by buses from Matsue, it is a nice place for a quiet visit and the guesthouse used by Lafcadio Hearn is still in business.

The previous post on sights to see in Matsue was on Jozan Inari Shrine, another shrine with a famous boat festival.

Tairyuji Yakushi-in Temple

 

As far as I can make out, Tairyuji Temple and Yakushi-in Temple share the same grounds and are somehow connected yet considered separate.

The Nio gate, which is partway up the steps to the complex, dates back to the 17th century and contains a fine pair of Nio.

I am not sure if the priest is visiting the temple or returning home to the temple

The Yakushi-in hall is the smaller of the two buildings in the photo below.

Yakushi-in was established in the 10th century down near where Bitchu Takahashi station is today.

It was moved to its current location in the very early 17th century. It is a Shingon temple and its "secret" honzon is only revealed once every 50 years.

The Yakushi-in main hall is quite small, 3 bays wide and 3 bays deep, but is considered a fine example of Momoyama Period architecture and is registered as an Important Cultural Property of Okayama.

The Binzaru statue pictured below, was quite nice and is usually dark red in colour but may just be faded...

For many older Japanese the temple is well known as being the location for one of the "Tora-san" movies.

The previous post was on the Nariwa Art Museum.