Sazareishi Shrine

 

Located right in the middle of the Itoshima Plain, Sazareishi Shrine is surrounded by large Yayoi settlements and important tombs dating back 2,000 years.

This seems to have been the "capital" of the oldest "country" of Japan mentioned in the ancient Chinese chronicles. 

In historical times the shrine was very powerful and controlled numerous branch shrines in the area and was destroyed by warfare many times.

In  1587 Hideyoshi confiscated most of the shrines lands, and therefore income, and it declined in power.

The two main kami are Iwanngahime, and her sister Konohanasakuyahime, daughters of Oyamazumi.

They were offered as brides to Ninigi, sent by Amaterasu, but he sent Iwanagahime back to her father as she was ugly. In retaliation, Oyamazumi made the lifespans of the imperial line shorter, like mere mortals. Konohanasakuyahime is generally considered to be the goddess of Mount Fuji.

The previous post in those series on day 75 of my first Kyushu walk was on the nearby Ibara Sumiyoshi Shrine.

Shizuma Shrine & Shizunoiwaya Cave

 

Shizuma Shrine is on a small road close to the coast in Shizuma near Oda in Shimane.

In earlier times it was located inside a nearby sea cave, but a storm in 1674 changed the topography of the cave and so the shrine was moved to its current location.

It was founded in the 9th century and enshrines Okuninushi and Sukunahikona and is based on a poem in the second volume of the Manyoshu.

The poem mentions a stone chamber used as a temporary dwelling by Okuninushi and Sukunahiko while they were "creating" the land.

However, a couple of other sites also lay claim to being the "stone chamber", one a shrine in the mountains upriver from me, and the other a place in Hyogo. As all the Okuninushi and Sukunahikona stories are set in the Shimane and Tottori regions, the Hyogo claim seems suspect.

A monument inside the cave memorializes the Manyoshu poem.

The cave has two entrances, although now they are roped off and no-one can enter because of the danger of falling rocks.

The cave is on the beach right next to the small fishing village of Uozu, just west of the mouth of the Shizuma River.

I visited at the start of the fifth day of my deep exploration of the coast of the Sea of Japan. The previous post was on Isotake Beach where I ended the 4th day.

Ibara Sumiyoshi Shrine & Myojoji Temple Ruins

 

According to legend, Empress Jingu stopped here to pray after coming down from Mount Raizan, so for the past hour or two I have been following in her footsteps.

The shrine was controlled by a Shingon temple at the site but in 1868 it was dismantled.

It seems that a long time ago the area around the shrine was an estate of the Sumiyoshi Shrine in Hakata.

I am guessing that the massive trellis supporting wisteria was made on tye site of the former temple.

Three sides of the trellis have Buddhist statues lined up...

Another village shrine was merged with it in the early 20th century, so the main shrine enshrines other kami than the three Sumiyoshi kami.

There are a series of secondary shrines in the grounds including a Suga, Uga, and a Tenmangu.

The previous post was the Takaue Tenmangu Shrine

Takaue Tenmangu Shrine

 

My first stop after coming down the mountain and reachting the wide open  plain around Itoshima was the village shrine in Takae.

Located atop a small rise covered in trees, with a torii and steps leading up, very much a typical shrine.

There was no signboard so I have no idea how long it has been a Tnmangu. There are a lot of Tenmangu shrines in Fukuoka, but am not sure when they would have been established.

Dazaifu Tenmangu is now considered the head of all tenmangu shrine nation-wide, but it was temple until early Meiji so it didn't spread locally from there. Many shrines in my area became Tenmangu shrines fairly late.

Here in Kyushu the shrine buildings tend to be more open, probably due to the warmer climate. There were a couple of small secondary shrines in the grounds.

The previous post was on the walk down the mountain.

Uchihara Oji Shrine

 

Located in Hidaka, a little north of Gobo, for 800 years this was known as Takaie Oji, but was renamed in early Meiji.

It was one of the 100 Oji, shrines along the main pilgrimage route from Kyoto down the coast of Wakayama and then into the Kumano Sanzan shrines.

Shrine records say there was a shrine here in the mid 5th century. I'm not exactly sure when the system of Oji were established, but I am guessing in the Heian Period when the most imperial pilgrimages along this route took place. The primary kami is listed as Amaterasu, with secondary kami listed as Homuda Wake (Ojin), Ichikishimahime, Kagutsuchi, Sugawara Michizane (Tenjin), Kanayamahiko, and  Nintoku.

During the so-called shrine mergers of early 20th century, 30 local shrines were moved here including multiple Benzaiten, Konpira, Tenjin, and Inari shrines as well as many unamed "satogami".

I visited at the start of day 7 of my walk along the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, which in this section follows the old Kumano Kodo Kiiji Route. The previous post was on the nearby Dojoji Temple, a famous and picturesque spot.

Omirokusama Shrine

 

Popular shrines will often have large numbers of objects left or donated by worshippers who either are praying for something, or giving thanks for something. Votive tablets, known as ema in Japanese, or even simple wooden torii gates like those found at many Inari shrines are common, as is leaving miniature statues.

At Omiroikusama Shrine in Tosa, Kochi you will find lots of ema, lots of torii, and literally thousands and thousands of miniature frogs.

Frog statues and figurines can be seen at quite a few temples. The word for frog, kaeru, also means "return" and so is often used a symbol meaning safe return. Such homophones are quite common in Japan as the Japanese language is composed of relatively few sounds.

However the frogs here have nothing to do with returning, rather the frogs skin reminds people of warts, and at Omiroku Shrine the tradition is that you pray here for relief from warts, and if successful then you come back and leave a small frog.

The fame of Omirokusama Shrine has spread and people from all over Japan make the journey to Shikoku to pray at the shrine and nowadays a new twist has been added as the idea that cancer is a form of internal warts has taken hold.

The origin of the shrine lies in 1899 when a local farmer dug up a sacred object of some kind. Most sources say a"shrine", but it is not clear exactly what that means.

He took it home and placed it in his storehouse. Later he and his family became plagued with warts and other skin ailments. He consulted a Shinto priest who told him the kami was upset at being moved and the man should return the "shrine" to its original spot.

This he did, and so the shrine began. The rest, as they say, is history. Incidentally, Miroku is the Japanese name for Maitreya, a Buddhist bodhisattva known as the Future Buddha.

Though tiny, this is a fascinating site to visit. Very much a creation of "folk" and having nothing to do with imperial shinto, the influence of Buddhism is also very "folk".

When walking from Tanemaji Temple, number 34 on the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage, to Kiyotakiji Temple, number 35, Omirokusama Shrine is located on the riverbank immediately after crossing the Niyodo River on Route 56. The previous post in this series exploring the sights found along the routes between the temples was on the walk to Tanemaji Temple from Wakamiya Hachimangu.