Hayashi Kumano Shrine. The First Kumano Shrine?

 

This was a completely unexpected site I visited while heading down towards the next pilgrimage temple, Rendaiji. From the first torii up to the main shrine buildings was quite a distance and around the shrine was a lot of open space.

I now believe this area was until around 1868 filled with many Buddhist structures, the three-storey pagoda remaining.

The arrangement of the shrine was also unusual, with a long line of 13 hondens in 4 structures.

Originally called Kumano Junisha Gongen, and renamed Kumano Shrine in 1868, the junisha refers to the 12 kami enshrined in the line of hondens, the 12 kumano kami plus a local protective kami.

According to the founding legend, in 699 the famed mystic and legendary founder of Shugendo was exiled to Izu. A group of 5 of his disciples carried the spirit of what is now Hongu Taisha shrine in Kumano and eventually, in 701, decided upon this spot to found a new shrine. This is why the shrine now claims to be the very first "Kumano" shrine.

The five disciples also founded 5 temples in the area and this became a major shugendo centre with two other sites in the area for a Shin Kumano.

The shrine temple complex went through cycles of destruction like most major religious centres and the oldest remaining structure is the one called Second Hall. It was rebuilt in 1492 and is a National Important Cultural Property.

The remaining structures date back to a rebuild by the Okayama  Daimyo Ikeda Mitsumasa in 1647.

The  kami are listed as Izanami, Izanagi, Amaterasu, Ninigi, Amenoshihomimi, Hikohohodemi, Ugayafukiaeizu, Haniyamahime, Kagutsuchi, Wakamusubi, and Mizuhanome.

Among the secondary shrines in the grounds are Susanoo and Ichikishima.

In 1868 the shrine was separated from all the temple structures and renamed Kumano Shrine.

In 1872 Shugendo was outlawed until 1945.

The previous post was on the remaining temples in the complex and the three-storey pagoda.

Washio Atago Shrine

 

Washio Atago Shrine sits atop a 68 meter  tall hill overlooking Fukuoka City.

It is considered one of the top 3 of the 900 Atago shrines in Japan, with the other two being the head shrine overlooking Kyoto and the one in Tokyo

Originally called Mount Washio, according to legend a shrine, Washio Shrine, was established here in 72 AD enshrining Izanagi and Amenoshihomimi, the oldest of Amaterasu's five sons. These are the two main kami of Hikosan, the major Shugendo site in northern Kyushu, and one theory is that the kami were moved to Hikosan from here.

Since the 10th century the shrine was under the jurisdiction of a shugendo Tendai temple, Torin-ji, and in fact for a while after a period of warfare only the temple building remained.

In 1634 the new daimyo of the domain established Atago Daigongen at the site and a Shingon temple. He had successfully prayed at the shugendo site atop Mount Atago in Kyoto and brought the kami Izanami and Homusubi from there.

In 1901 the Washio Shrine and Atago Shrine were merged and the temples removed. The Buddhist statue shintai, a Shogun Jizo, was moved to what is now Kannonji Temple a little lower down the hillside.

Within the grounds is an Uga Shrine enshrining Susano, Yamato Takeru, and Ugatama, and as well as the Kannonji Temple there is also a Jizoson shrine.

There is an Inari shrine and I will cover that in the next post.

It is a very popular shrine especially during cherry blossom season when I visited as it has 2,000 cherry trees.

It also has great views over Fukuoka City.

The previous post was on the Kannonji Temple just below.

Rokusho Shrine Ebisudani

 

Rokusho Shrine was once a part of a powerful temple-shrine complex in the high country near the centre of the Kunisaki Peninsula, but is nowadays a bit far off the beaten track to get many visitors.

Ebisudani is one of the 28 valleys that radiate out from the centre of the peninsula that is home to an ancient form of shugendo pilgrimage based on Tendai Buddhism and Usa Hachimangu called Rokugo Manzan.

Ashikaga Takauji visited here in the early 14th century and is said to have planted 6 trees and prayed for victory against Emperor Go-Daigo before eventually starting the Ashikaga Shogunate. Some sources claim these 6 trees to be the ones planted, but they are obviously planted much more recently.

A new trail that roughly follows the old pilgrimage route is called Kunisaki Hanto Minemichi Long Trail, and passes right by here.

The shrine was originally the okunoin of Reisenji Temple. Reisenji and Jisso-in, a sub-temple, are now located immediately adjacent to the shrine following the separation of Buddhas and Kami of early Meiji.

As is fairly usual with these Shugendo-based sites in Kunisaki, they are situated in caves and cliffs of rocky outcroppings.

This Hachiman Shrine is probably a post-meiji addition.

Rockusho is a fairly common name and pretty much means "six kami", although the different Rokusho shrines around the country have different 6 kami.

Here the 6 kami start with Izanagi, and is then followed by Yatomagatsuhi no kami and Ono no kami. This pair were created by Izanagi while purifying after fleeing Yomi. One is said to be the kami of disasters, and the second one who fixes disasters. Tbey may be two aspects of the same kami.

The last set of kami are Umetsuno, Nakatsuno, and Sokotsuno, known collectively as the Sumiyoshi kami. Now associated with the head Sumiyoshi shrine in Osaka, the three kami are originally from northern Kyushu and are connected with sea journeys.

The zuijin here are painted, not statues, something I have seen at other shrines in Kunisaki.

The shrine-temple used to hold the Shujo Onie fire festival, but as a sign of its decline, no longer does.

There is a small group of magaibutsu, Buddhist carvings, that seem to show a couple of monks and a nun. The central figure may well be Nimon, the legendary founder of Rokugo Manzan

The previous post was on neighbouring Jisson-in temple.

Kurokami Shrine

 

I came down Mount Kurokami along a walking trail and as it got closer to the base passed though an old, Hizen-style torii, indicating this was the route used to reach the shrine at the peak.

There was another, slightly smaller torii where the trail emerged from the trees into the countryside. According to the sign it was built in the late 18th century.

Not far away I reached the entrance to Kurokami Shrine. Technically this is Lower Kurokami Shrine, and the one on top of the mountain the Upper Kurokami Shrine.

The approach to the shrine passes over a small bridge. This was the ancient and traditional way of purifying before entering shrine space. passing over running water. If you look at many of the oldest shrines they all have this feature.

There were lots of people in suits and kimonos milling around, and several priests.

A Shinto wedding had just taken place. Shinto weddings are one of the many "traditions" that were either invented in the modern period or moved to within shrines in the modern period. Christian weddings have a much longer history in Japan than Shinto weddings.

The shrine is said to have been founded in ancient times, but the shrine history recognizes the huge impact Kumano Shugendo had on the shrine, including listing the Buddhas connected to it.

The upper shrine enshrines Izanami as well as Hayatama and Kotosaka. The secondary shrine at the top of the mountain is a Hakusan Shrine enshrining Izanagi.

Secondary shrines here at the lower shrine include a Tenjin, Taga, and a Konpira.

At the peak of its power, Kurokami had 50 branch  shrines. It was popular with samurai during the Warring States period and a yabusame event is held here once a year.

There is also a secondary shrine to Amaterasu, though I am certain that is very much a modern addition, as is the Ise-style architecture.

The previous post was on the giant cliff carving of Fudo high up on the mountain.