Kubo Hachimangu

Kubo Hachimangu is a fairly major shrine in Onomichi.

Founded in the mid 9th Century, The enshrined kami, Hachiman, is composed of three different kami, the emperor Ojin, his mother Jingu, and then either his father, Chuai, or his wife.

According to local legend, Ojin visited the area during the twentieth year of his reign, which would have been in the 5th Century, though the mytho-histories of Japan claim it to be the 3rd Century.

There are several secondary shrines within the grounds, one of which is certainly and Inari shrine, though there was no information board at the shrine so I could not find out about the others.

Saikokuji, Onomichi

Saikoku-ji is a major temple complex in Onomichi, and along with Senko-ji and Jodo-ji it is one of the three temples that shouldn't be missed among the dozens found along the temple walk.

It is approached up a long slope that ends with the impressive Niomon with its huge straw sandals. Then there are steps to climb up to the temple complex itself on several levels.

According to the founding legend it was founded by Gyoki sometime around 739. Now it is a Shingon temple. The Daishi Hall has some nice Fudo statues inside and out.

The temple burned down, along with Gyokis Honzon, in the early 11th Century, but Emperor Shirakawa ordered it rebuilt in 1081. The main hall and three storey pagoda are both Important Cultural properties.

Misode Tenmangu

Misode Tenmangu in Onomichi is built on the spot where Sugawara Michizane stopped and rested in 901 while on his way to exile in Kyushu. The locals apparently were kind to him and in return he cut off one sleeve of his kimono and painted a picture of himself on it.

That piece of fabric is the goshintai of the shrine. There is an Inari shrine in the grounds, and several others but I was unable to find out which.

As well as students hoping to do well in exams, quite a lot of movie buffs visit the shrine as it was featured in a well known movie and featured in a famous anime.

The 54 steps leading up to the shrine are interesting. They are 5 meters wide and each one is carved out of a single piece of stone.

Senko-ji, Onomichi

Senkoji is undoubtedly the most visited temple in Onomichi and is an icon of the city. Part of the Onomichi Temple Walk and temple number 10 of the Chugoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage.

It is a Shingon temple reputedly founded by Kukai himself in 806. The main deity is a Thousand-Armed Kannon and is opened to the public every 33 years.

The temple buildings are scattered around the outcroppings of rock near the top of Mount Senkoji and great views over the town and the islands of the Inland Sea can be had.

The most famous and prominent rock is the "Jewel Rock", 50 meters in circumference and 15 meters high it is topped by a spherical "jewel" that legend says glows at night and illuminates the surrounding sea. The temple is also popular for its miniature Jizo.

Onomichi City Museum of Art

The Museum of Art in Onomichi, Hiroshima, is located on top of the mountain overlooking the town and the nearby islands.

It was designed by world-famous Japanese architect Tadao Ando, and while the combination of modern glass and steel with the traditional curved roof is interesting, it is in my opinion not one of his better designs.

The museum hosts various changing exhibitions and has a cafe with great views.

It is possible to drive up, but the easiest way is to take the Senkoji Ropeway. The museum is a few minbutes walk from the mountaintop station.

It's open from 9 to 5 and is closed on Mondays.

Mount Senkoji Ropeway

Mt. Senkoji is only 140 meters high, but it does go right down to the sea and is fairly steep, so the ropeway is a good way to get up.

I havent been on to many ropeways that are so urban. On the way up it passes directly over a lot of houses and of course offers nice views.

Its not often you get to look down on a cemetery.

Closer to the top it passes near Senko-ji, the temple the mountain is named after.

From the top there are great views over Onomichi and across the channel to the islands...

Onomichi Temple Walk, Myosenji

After visiting Ushitora Shrine, it was still too early for the first cable car/ropeway  up the mountainside so I carried on exploring temples. Nearby was Myosenji.

It has quite an impressive approach and gate.

With its raked gravel garden one might think it was a zen temple, but in fact it belongs to the Nichiren sect and was founded in 1354.

The only interesting piece of information I have been able to find out about Myosenji is that behind the main hall is a Kiyomasa Kato-do, a memorial hall to the famous warlord who was known to be a big supporter of the Nichiren sect.

Ushitora Shrine

The next stop along the Onomichi Temple Walk is Ushitora Shrine, founded in the mid 9th Century and therefore believed to be the oldest shrine in the town.

The shrine is set in a grove of massive camphor trees the oldest of which is more than 900 years old. The ropeway up the mountain now passes over the shrine.

The 4 kami enshrined in the main shrine are Izanagi, Amaterasu, Susano, and Kibitsuhiko.

There are a lot of secondary shrines in the grounds including a large pyramidical rock, but the only one I could be sure of was an Inari Shrine.

Onomichi Temple Walk. Tenneiji

The next temple on the Onomichi Temple Walk is Tenneiji

Founded in the middle of the 14th century as a Rinzai temple, it is now a Soto sect temple.

The pagoda behind the temple offers some great views over the town.

The original pagoda had 5 storeys.

Ikkyu Shrine, Onomichi

The Onomichi Temple Walk also passes by some shrines as well as temples, and the first shrine just after Hodou-ji is Ikkyu Shrine.

Enshrined here is Kibitsuhiko, the major kami of the Kibi region in southern Okayama. According to legend he was an imperial prince sent from Yamato to defeat a demon troubling the people of Kibi. The story of Momotaro is believed to be based on this legend.

When I first visited the shrine it was in late October and the place was a hive of activity with parishioners preparing for the Betcha Matsuri held on November 3rd. as well as the usual mikoshi procession, the Betcha matsuri includes a tengu and 2 demons who beat children and infants with sticks to ensure their good health.