Akasaki Town, Tottori

This the draincover for Akasaki in Tottori. In one of the recent civic mergers it is now a part of Kotoura Town.

It was once a thriving port, but has seen better days.

In the centre of the design can be seen a group of sculptures called Fisherman and Seaspray, created in 1989 by modern Japanese sculptor Masayuki Nagare. I must admit I didn't know of him before, but he's a fascinating guy. He is the son of the founder of Ritsumeikan University. Before the war he studied Shinto, and during the war he was an elite Zero fighter pilot. His work became popular more in the U.S. at first, but now he's recognized as one of the greatest living Japanese sculptors. He has a cool website in English
http://www.nagaremasayuki.com/

We didn't get to see the sculptures, as the sun was getting low and we were looking for some quiet beach to park the van to sleep for the night. I do remember noticing that there were a couple of huge cemeteries.

We did find an isolated stretch of coast, but the beach was very rocky, though a pleasant sunset was had!

Tondo Matsuri

Today was Tondo Matsuri. In different regions of Japan they call it by other names, but in essence it is a fire festival held around the second week of January when all the new year ornaments are ritually burned.

Following the reading of a short norito (prayer) and offerings at a small altar in front of the bonfire, the festival leader sprinkles some Omiki (sacred sake) on the bonfire and the fire is then lit by villagers who were born in the same animal year as this year, the Ox.

Sake warmed in bamboo is liberally served. Once the bonfire dies down a little the bamboo tubes filled with sake will be placed in the fire, but until then it is heated over a small charcoal barbecue.

The village ladies serve Tonjiru (pork stew), wild boar stew, and nanakusa gayu, a rice porridge with 7 herbs that is supposed to ensure longevity and health.

Village kids bring pieces of calligraphy expressing their wishes for the coming year and place them in the fire. If the paper rises into the air with the smoke then that child will become a good calligrapher.

It was a bitterly cold and windy morning, with snow flurries, but there was quite a good turnout. A cynic might think it is because of the free sake and food.

Honmyozan Konpira Shrine, Arifuku

Honmyozan is a 412 meter high mountain behind Arifukuonsen. On top of the mountain is the Konpira Shrine. This is the shrine featured in my hatsuhinode post. Mountaintop shrines are a development of medieval Japan. In ancient Japan the tops of mountains were reserved for the gods to alight upon, and shrines were placed at the base of mountains. It's not uncommon to find Konpira shrines on mountaintops. Atago are other shrines that are commonly found on mountaintops.

The head Konpira Shrine is on the island of Shikoku, and while Konpira is known particularly as a sea journey protection kami, its widespread popularity owes more to its nature as a kami who answered all prayers, and so, like most kami, there are many different aspects to Konpira.

The shrine was built by the Amago Clan who ruled this area of Japan until defeated by the Mori Clan. The Amago had a small fort on the mountain top. Actually the shrine is just a small hokora (wayside shrine) that has had a protective building built around and over it.

The shrine has no priest or festival, but is opened by the Ujiko (parishioners group) on New Years day to sell amulets and talismans.

Honmyozan is the highest mountain in the vicinity, and so has expansive views up and down the coast and inland.

Index of Shrines

Shimane by numbers

or, everything you ever wanted to know about Shimane (but were afraid to ask)

I live in Shimane Prefecture. It's not a well known place, in fact I had lived in Japan for 2 years before I had even heard of it.

Shimane Prefecture, along with the other 46 Prefectures, was created in 1871 when the Meiji government redrew the political boundaries. Shimane was formed by combing the 3 former provinces of Izumo, Iwami, and the Oki Islands. These old provincial identities remain strong today which is why I rarely mention Shimane, rather Iwami, Izumo, or the Okis.

The size of Shimane is 6,707 sq. kilometers. which makes it the 18th largest prefecture. It is roughly the same size as the county of Devon in England, or the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in Utah.

Shimane has a population of roughly 761,000, making it the 2nd least populated prefecture.
That is roughly equivalent to the population of Devon. Actually that figure is probably a little smaller as it is a few years old and Shimane continues to depopulate. People are still moving to the big cities, and as far as I can tell the reason is often for work and "convenience"! Not exactly sure what convenience is, but personally I don't find indentured servitude and rabid consumption at all convenient!

The population density is 114 people per square kilometer, which is the 4th least densely populated prefecture. (compare that to Tokyo, with a population density of more than 100 times that)

79% of Shimane is forest. Almost none of it is original forest, and this century an awful lot of cedar and cypress plantations have been planted. Being mostly forest, and not heavily populated is probably why Shimane often has the most bear sightings per year in Japan.

Shimane has the cheapest building land prices in Japan. The average cost is 27,000 yen per square meter (approx $250), and as that is the average it means much cheaper building land can be had.

This is my house. I'm not going to give you the price, suffice it to say it cost the same as one years rent for the tiny apartment we lived in in Kyoto. The house is more than 10 times larger than the apartment. Actually, because of Japans strange property market the house was free, we just paid for the land. The house is more than 50 years old which means in japan it has no value.

It is what could be called a "fixer-upper", but perfectly habitable when we moved in. Since adding insulation and a woodstove it is very comfortable, and I am gradually renovating and remodelling it.

Slideshows of Japan

Thanks to the wonders of digital camera technology, it's now possible to take thousands of photos at almost no cost!

And I do!

Rather than take individual photos, my main interest is in slideshows. Over at my ipernity site (ipernity is similar to flickr, but better) I currently have more than 14,000 photos, most of them of Japan, organized into 158 slideshows.

One of my favorite activities is to go somewhere I've never been before and walk around taking photos of whatever my eyes are drawn to. That is usually the content of each slideshow, with the sequence arranged chronologically.

For example, I've recently posted several blogs on Aquas Aquarium. The photos were taken from 2 visits I made to the aquarium.

If you are interested, I suggest grabbing a beverage, putting on some music, and sitting back and coming along with me as I explore.

click on the link, and the controls for the slideshow (pause, full screen, etc) are easy to figure out.

An afternoon at the aquarium (125 photos)


2 hours around Aquas (133 photos)

Actually you can click on almost every photo in my blog and it will take you to the slideshow it is a part of.

January harvest.

Kabetsu, known as cabbage in English, grow most of the year. It took me a few years to realize that without using chemical pesticides they all got eaten by butterfly caterpillars. Now I grow them under net :). Grated cabbage is included with many Japanese meals and in this form its called cabbage salad. Considering how common a vegetable it is in gardens and on plates I was really surprised to learn that it was not introduced into Japan until quite recently, during the Meiji Period.

Negi, known variously as green onion, spring onion, scallion, etc in English. They grow all year round. They are used extensively in Japanese cooking, either by cutting off the green tops, or by pulling the whole onion. They originally came from Siberia and were introduced about 1,500 years ago.

Still harvesting lots of lettuce, spinach, and carrots.

Finally got round to shelling the black beans. They've been hanging to dry for a couple of months. They are edamame allowed to mature completely. The plants grew plenty big enough, but most of the pods were empty. Need to do more research (i.e. talk to the neighbors) as I need to grow a bigger crop of legumes.

C.W. Nicol has a nice article in the Japan Times this week on country living in Japan. Japan has been plagued with food scandals recently, mostly caused by Japanese business ethics (or lack thereof), and with other factors contributing, the price of food is getting higher. I'm quite jealous of his parsnips and swedes! I have grown them here, but not very successfully. Maybe the climate and weather up in Nagano is more condusive to them.

Typical Japanese Landscape 13

Near Kaminoseki, on the southern coast of Yamaguchi Prefecture.

More Japanese Landscapes

Inside Aquas

When I went inside Aquas Aquarium I didn't actually spend a lot of time looking at the fish! I wandered around looking at the light and space for shots to photograph.

The cafe area is glass and steel, so easy for a cliche shot!

The windows high up in the "fin" and ceiling were cool.

The building was designed by Nikken Sekkei Company, who I recently learned also designed the Fukuoka Tower.

I'm a sucker for circular windows, and Aquas has them in internal walls as well as external.

More post on Aquas

New Year

Best wishes to you all for this New Year !

I'm not going anywhere today!... gonna stay next to the woodstove!

New Year in Japan

My first experience of New Year in Japan was in Kyoto. We decided to visit the nearby Shimogamo Shrine a little after midnight for hatsumode, the first shrine visit of the year. We left home about 11.45 planning on getting to the shrine after midnight. After walking for a while I asked Yoko what the time was and she told me it was 00.05!!... I had been waiting for the noise to mark the new year, but it was totally quiet. Every country I have ever lived in marks the turning of the year with noise,... fireworks, church bells, car horns, boat horns, or people cheering and singing, but in Japan....nada!

I had never been to Shimogamo shrine before, so I was looking forward to looking around. Hah! fat chance!... to say it was crowded would be an understatement. The throng was so tightly packed that I could easily have lifted both feet off the ground and been carried around by the shuffling masses.

Next year we decided to do hatsuhinode, watching the first sunrise of the year. We went down to Shionomisaki, the southernmost tip of the Wakayama Peninsular, the southernmost point of Honshu. We slept out on the cliff along with a couple of dozen other people, and were joined in the pre-dawn light by several hundred others. It was a cloudy morning, so not particular memorable.

My best experience of New Year in Japan was a couple of years ago.

I'd heard about a mountain behind Arifuku, Honmyozan, that people went to to watch the first sunrise, so we contacted friends who live in Arifuku to ask where the trail up the mountain was. Very kindly they contacted the ujiko (parishioners group) of the small shrine on the mountaintop, and they offered to take us up there with them.

We got to the top around 22:00, built a big fire, then settled into the tiny shrine to drink sake and eat wild boar stew caught by some of the hunters in the group.

A few hours before sunrise more people started to arrive after having climbed the mountain in the dark.

By sunrise about 40 people were gathered together in the freezing cold. The sunrise was worth waiting for as it was a cloudless sky. The views from the mountain were impressive.

We came down the mountain through the sun-dappled forest.

Not sure what we'll do this year. It snowed all day yesterday, and a thick blanket of white still covers the ground.