The White Fox of Yuda Onsen

Images and statues of a white fox appear all over the place in Yuda Onsen, a spa resort next to Yamaguchi City, even on the drain covers.

The reason is that local legend has it that the hot spring and its healing properties were discovered by a white fox.

A priest from a nearby temple saw an injured white fox bathing itself and from then there have been spas in the area.

This occurred in the Muromach period, about 800 years ago.

In 1707 the spas closed down as an eruption of Mt Fuji caused the springs to dry up, but they reopened 3 years later.

Since the onsen boom of the 1980's the number of ryokans and spas has increased dramatically, most of them leaning toward the expensive price range.

The waters have a reputation for healing rheumatism, neuralgia, and dermatitus.

Radio Controlled Pest Control

I was woken this morning by the whine of the village rice paddies being sprayed with insecticide. The area to be sprayed is not huge,.... I reckon a single person with a sprayer on his/her back could spray the paddies in a good long day, but why do that when expensive, hi-tech, labor-saving devices are available? Surely it costs much more to hire a team of 4 men with an obviously expensive piece of equipment than to pay 1 man a days labor?

There is an obsession in Japan with hi-tech toys that I still cannot quite grasp. Automatic doors, escalators, toilet seat covers that raise automatically when you enter the room, electronic corkscrews,... there are miniature diggers that look like oversize Tonka toys that people will rent when a pick and shovel could do the job at half the price.

They are developing robots to take care of the elderly.... surveys show that old people would prefer to be taken care of by Japanese robots rather than foreign care workers....... I understand the logic, though I disagree with it, that producing crap that is not needed, using up resources and producing pollution, is "good for the economy", and one of the first things I observed when I came to Japan was the blind worship of "the economy", but I still can't figure out why Japanese people have this need to play with the latest gadgets.

Korean Forge Shrine

Karakama Shrine (Korean Forge) is not an easy shrine to reach, First you have to find the way along narrow mountain lanes in the mountains north of Izumo Taisha. Once you find the old wooden torii it is then a climb up into the mountains.

 

Once you get up close to the shrine one further hurdle must be crossed.... to reach the shrine one must squeeze through a narrow crack between rocks.... and it is no exaggeration to say that overweight people will not get through.

 

Despite its remoteness, the guest book at the small shrine attests to its popularity. The shrine enshrines Susano, and clearly links him with Korea and the introduction of metallurgy,

 

The nearby river Karakawa (Korean River) gives its name to the local settlements, and further underscores the link between this part of Japan to Korea.

 

Between Karakama Shrine and Hinomisaki Shrine on the coast once stood Karakuni Shrine (Korean Country). It was moved to within the grounds of Hinomisaki during the Meiji Period. Hinomisaki Shrine itself is believed to have been built upon the site of a much older shrine to Isotake, the son of Susano who came with hime from Shiragi (Sila)

Sesshu and the Rat

Sesshu & The Rat

The artist and Zen monk who is known by the name of Sesshu is one of the greatest Japanese artists of all time. Born in Akahama (now part of Soja, Okayama Pref.) in 1420. The son of a samurai family, at the age of 10 he was packed off to the nearby Zen temple of Hofuku-Ji to train as a monk, and it was from this time that a famous story about him is set.

Apparently he was not a good novice, preferring to spend his time drawing rather than chanting the sutras, and one day as punishment for his misbehaviour he was tied to one of the pillars in the temple hall.

Later when a monk (or abbot) came to check on him he was startled by what appeared to be a rat on the floor in front of the bound Sesshu. On closer examination it turned out that the rat was a very life-like drawing done by Sesshu using his toe to draw in the dust of the floor with his tears.

His artistic talent being recognized he was encouraged to follow his heart and so became the great artist he is known as today.

There is another version of the story that says that the rat drawing was so life-like it actually became real and chewed through the ropes binding Sesshu and freed him.

Vacation 2010 Day 6: Nuremberg

After the Mercedes Benz Museum in Stuttgart I hopped a train to Nuremberg. I had a room inside the old town walls, so spent the afternoon wandering around there. Nuremberg was once the unofficial capital of the Holy Roman Empire, so of course there are many large churches and cathedrals.

There are some pretty impressive large temples in japan, but the main differences between those and European cathedrals I noted were that the combination of height and light made for quite a different focus. In temples usually the only light is focused on the statues, whereas in cathedrals the building itself was the focus. Focusing in versus out.

I didn't stop in here for lunch as I am not overly fond of sushi.

The Hangmans Bridge crosses the River Pegnitz. Apparently contact with the hangman was avoided so he had his own bridge.

More churches........

The big surprise was just down a narrow alley from my hotel. The new Museum of Modern Art cleverly uses a curved glass facade to reflect the surrounding traditional architecture and therefore avoids standing out like a sore thumb.

In the foyer was a wonderful spiral staircase...

The Most Beautiful View in Japan

Not according to me it isn't!

And not according to the Japanese.

It's the opinion of a diplomatic emissary from Korea who stayed at Fukizenji temple in Tomonoura in eastern Hiroshima. I-Pan-On stayed here in 1711 and he claimed it was the most beautiful view in Asia.

The temple and Tomonoura have made good use of his opinion in advertising the town though.

The views from Tomonoura are good I have to admit, and the centerpiece is the island of Bentenjima.

I really enjoyed Tomonoura, it was not too crowded with tourists like nearby Kurashiki, and has a nice feel to it. There are lots of Edo-period buildings in the narrow streets and alleys, and a high concentration of shrines and temples.

To get the best views it is worth climbing the hill to Io-Ji temple, claimed to have been founded by Kobo Daishi.

Shoki a la Peckinpah

I thought I would post a slightly longer video of Iwami kagura. A dance usually last 45 minutes, but for now I post the final sequence of Shoki by my local kagura group Tanijyugo Shachu.

In the synopsis for the dance it says that Shoki subdues the demon with his ring of miscanthus reed and then stabs him and kills him.

In this version I counted more than 20 stabs!!!

The hoop of miscanthus reed is still used today and is called a Chinowa. Passing through the ring is supposed to protect you from communicable diseases.

Gonokawa Matsuri Parade

Monday was the annual Gonokawa Matsuri in Gotsu.

Dragon Boat racing, kagura, brass band, hip-hop dancing, and of course fireworks.

For the first time I was able to see the parade, so these are just photos from that.

To the accompaniment of the Gotsu-Shi Ondo, which sounds an awful lot like every other "town" folk song Ive heard, the parade consists of a variety of civic groups, clubs, companies etc performing the Gotsu folk dance, which looks an awful lot like every other town folk dance Ive seen.

One nice touch was the kagura dancers joining in the parade.

Omiya Shrine, Udo.

Just a couple of kilometers along the coast from Sagiura is another tiny fishing village with a shrine that was both mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki and listed in the Engi Shiki.

The village Omiya Shrine enshrines a male-female pair of kami, Shinatsuhiko and Shinatsuhime.

According to the ancient creation myths, after Izanagi and Izanami created the Japanese islands they were covered in mist, so Izanagi created Shinatsuhiko to blow the mist away, therefore the pair are known as gods of wind. In the village they are known as gods for safe travel by sea.

This whole section of coast is really quite wild and beautiful with just small fishing settlements in the occasional cove. reminds me of Cornwall in many ways. According to the Kunibiki myth this section of the peninsular was created by taking land from Shiragi, the Korean kingdom known as Sila in English

Hamada Childrens Museum of Art (inside)

Here in Shimane we have more museums and galleries per capita than any other Prefecture bar one. This may partially be due to the continued haemorrhaging of the population to the big cities, Shimane's population is decreasing faster than anywhere else, but it is most probably due to the massive influx of construction money from Tokyo. Shimane continues to vote LDP.

One person who has benefited from this influx of construction money is local-born architect Shin Takamatsu, the designer of the Hamada Childrens Museum of Art.

Architecture, modern or otherwise, lends itself easily to photography that leans towards the anstract, as does mine.

In the late afternoon and evening the sun creates fantastic patterns of light and shadow.

While all the big cities in Japan have their fair share of interesting modern architecture, its fun to explore the rural areas of Japan to find such things.