Vacation 2010 Day 13: Truro and The Lizard

From Helston I head to head into Truro for some business. The countryside is covered with the ruins of the old engine houses that pumped water from the tin mines.

Truro is a city and the capital of Cornwall. I'm not sure how a city is defined in Japan, I suspect it is simply a decision rendered by the government, but I knbow in the UK what defines a city, as opposed to a town, is the presence of a cathedral.

Its not a very old cathedral, as cathedrals go. Construction began in 1880, and it was completely finished in 1910.

Ive been to Truro hundreds of times, but I think this was the first time I have ever actually gone inside!!

After Truro, time to head down the the Lizard, the southernmost tip of mainland Britain, but first a stop at one of the cliff-top hotels for a Cornish Cream Tea.....

I lived down on the Lizard for a winter, and I have walked the coast path around it several times....

Haruta Shrine, Asuka

Haruta Shrine is located on the east side of Asuka, right next to Okadera Temple. The two were a temple-shrine complex until the seperation of buddhas and kami in early Meiji.

The three primary kami enshrined here are Onamuchi, another name for Okuninushi, Susano, and Homuda Wake, another name for Emperor Ojin.

The shrine is listed in the Engi Shiki, so is more than 1,000 years old.

The honden has an unusual design with a T-shaped roof topped by 3 chigi. The torii in front of the honden I would guess to be a post-meiji addition as this style was adopted by State Shinto.

A statue of Kinjiro, the common name for Ninomiya Sontoku. Similar statues are common in front of schools. Kinjiro is famous for becoming successful through self-study.

Nagaokakyo

This is the draincover for the city of Nagaoka, the place that was briefly the capital of Japan before it moved to Kyoto. The design shows bamboo and bamboo shoots (takenoko) a major product of the area.

The hills behind the town are covered almost exclusively in bamboo and there are plenty of trails and small roads that let you walk through the area.

I have an earlier post on takenoko here

Whereas we don't maintain the bamboo in any way, other than harvesting the root and the poles, here the bamboo is cultivated.

One method seems to be layering rice straw with soft earth. In places this has built up to a depth of 2 meters with narrow paths between.

The bamboo sculptures at Komorikate Shrine were popular with you, so here is a close-up of the tiger, made completely out of bamboo save for the glass eyes....

Momiji gari

Went to a charity kagura event today and saw a dance I had never seen before, Momiji-gari.

The dance opens with three maidens dressed in gorgeous kimonos carrying sprigs of maple.

The dance is based on a Noh drama which itself was based on an older story set among the autumn leaves in what is now Nagano.

The group dancing was from northern Hiroshima, and one feature of Hiroshima kagura is that "human" dancers do not wear masks, rather make-up.

The dance was graceful and at times frenetic, and the blur of golds, yellows, and reds against the backdrop of autumn leaves was quite spectacular.

Next up we are introduced to Taira Koremochi, the great Heike warrior, who along with an aide has come to Nagano to destroy a demon that has been harassing the local people.

The heroes accept the invitation of the maidens to join their party and are repeatedly given sake until they fall into a drunken stupor.

Now the maidens reveal their true identity as the demons the heroes have come to slay and begin a dance in celebration of the inevitable doom of the heroes.

The transformation from maiden to demon is truly instantaneous.... one second the women are spinning around and in the next they have on the demon masks....... I certainly did not see it happen, and the audience erupts with applause at the slickness of the transformation....

As you can see in the photo, the masks are not held to the head by strings but are gripped between the teeth

to be continued

A gallery of Miko

Iwashimizu Hachimangu, Kyoto.

Miko, commonly translated as "shrine maiden" in English, can be seen at many shrines in Japan.

Iwashimizu Hachimangu, Kyoto.

At larger shrines they will be full-time employees with duties that include office work, cleaning, sales, and assisting with ceremonies.

Dazaifu Tenmangu.

They are not female priests, or priestesses. There are female priests, though they are  not a large percentage of the priesthood.

Iwaishima, Kanmai Matsuri

At smaller, local shrines, elementary-school girls will fulfill the role of miko in some ceremonies. A common scenario being Miko Mai, a dance performed by a single miko or a group. I have several videos of Miko mai, one performed by 4 village girls at the Tsunozu matsuri, and another of two full-time miko rehearsing for a festival at Kagoshima Jingu. Both posts also have lots of photos.

Takachiho Shrine.

Nagaoka Tenmangu.

The most common time to see miko though will be over the New Year period when shrines are at their busiest in the whole year. Big shrines will hire lots of university students as Miko to handle the influx of visitors.

Nagaoka Tenmangu

The full-time Miko will perform the more ceremonial duties, commonly inculuding purification rituals.

Tosa Inari Shrine

Tosa Inari Shrine is jammed in between buildings on a side street off of Kawaramachi Dori in downtown Kyoto.

The shrine was originally built in 1348 on the bank of the Kamo river a little east of its present site.

It was moved here in the Edo Period and renamed Tosa Inari as the surrounding area was the Kyoto headquarters of the Tosa Domain, the former Shikoku Domain nowadays most well known as being the home of Ryouma Sakamoto, star of the most recent NHK taiga drama.

Sakamoto was assasinated not far from here, and amost certainly he prayed at this shrine.

Atrium at Seahawk Hotel

The atrium of the Seahawk Hotel in Fukuoka is based on the design of a seashell.

It, and the hotel, were designed by Italian architect Cesar Pelli.

It offers great views out to sea and houses several restaurants and shops....

Toji. Winter Solstice

I should have posted these a few weeks back in a more timely manner, but with the record levels of snow recently thoughts of winter and the return of the sun are on my mind. They are three paintings I did about 5 years ago on the theme of Toji, winter solstice.

 

They are titled, rather unimaginatively Toji, Toji 2, and Toji 3. They are acrylic on paper and measure 38 by 26 cms.

 

They are for sale, so if interested make me an offer :)

Kunisaki Fudo Myo o

The Kunisaki Peninsular in Oita Prefecture, northern Kyushu, was a major center of Shugendo, the syncretic mountain religion mixing elements of esoteric Buddhism, Daoism, and other forms of mountain "religions". The version practised in Kunisaki was a variant based on Tendai and Hachiman.

Fudo Myo is strongly associated with Shugendo, so I expected to see a lot of Fudo statuary, but actually there wasn't all that much.

These first three were all at Taizo-ji.

Though details differ, most statues of Fudo Myo have him holding a sword in his right hand, a rope in his left, and flames behind.

The devil-subduing sword represents wisdom cutting through ignorance. The rope is used to catch and tie up demons.

The flames purify the mind by burning away material desires. Fudo Myo's fierce, fanged face is meant to frighten people into accepting the Buddhas way....

Up on the mountainside above Taizo-Ji are the Kumano Magaibutsu, 2 huge carvings hewn directly into the cliff face.

The one of Fudo Myo is eight meters tall and the largest cliff carving in Japan.

I am almost sure that this old wooden statue of Fudo Myo is at Maki Odo, which also has many other wonderful wooden statues.

In the center of the Kunisaki Peninsular is Futago-san, the highest mountain, and on it lies Futago-Ji dedicated to Fudo Myo, so there are many statues of him here. The two figues at his sides are probably Kongara Doji and Seitaka Doji.

Like many of the Buddhist deities, Fudo Myo's origin is in Hinduism.