Vacation 2011 Day 9 to the highest point

On the third morning in the Jebel Sahro the dawn and sunrise were well worth waking early for.

The first few kilometers of the days hike was through a narrow canyon. We had come here yesterday afternoon to take advantage of the running water to bathe.

As the year progresses the water, originating as melted snow in the high country, will slowly decrease. There probably wont be any more running water till we come out of the jebel sahro.

We had lunch at a small trading post at the foot of a golden escarpment we would climb in the afternoon.

I headed off ahead of the group and started the climb to tonights campsite. Its not that I am unsociable, but for me its hard to enjoy the landscape with people chattering. Also it allowed me to climb at my own pace and not have to keep up.

The views from on top were sublime, so I plonked myself down and sat for the next few hours and watched as the vista laid out in front of me changed with the passing of the sun and clouds.

I knew I would be up before dawn to take in the dawn and sunrise.

Many rivers to cross

The 88 temple pilgrimage route on Shikoku pretty much follows the coast all the way round the island, and as all rivers head to the sea there are an enormous number of rivers, large and small, to cross.

In former times there would have been some bridges to use, but for many of the rivers it would have been necessary to wade across or use a ferry boat. Now we are just whisked across on ribbons of concrete and steel and so do not really get encounter what a barrier they often were.

The first photo is of the great Yoshino River which must be crossed to get to temple eleven from temple 10. It is 194 kms long, the second longest in Shikoku, and passes through all 4 prefectures on its way to the sea. It is one of the "three great rivers of Japan".

Ther second photo is of the Akui River which you have to cross after temple 12. The bridge is some stout planks connecting concrete supports. Like many rivers in japan this one is very popular for ayu fishing. The Akui runs into the Yoshino.

The third photo is the Tatsue River you must cross via a vermillion bridge to get to temple 19.

The fourth is the Nakagawa between the two mountain temples 20 and 21. It was on the banks of this river that I spent 2 days riding out the typhoon.

After temple 22 the route takes you right along the coast. There are many small rivers, most too small to be names, like this one at Tainohama beach. Its nice to see a river lined with stone rather than concrete.

Meoto Iwa husband and wife rocks

Meoto Iwa are pairs of rocks joined by a shimenawa. They are known as husband and wife rocks or wedded rocks, and are generally considered to represent Izanagi and Izanami, the primordial brother/sister husband/wife kami pair that created the Japanese Islands and the kami.

The draincover of Yasu, now a part of Konan City, in Kochi, shows a Meoto Iwa found on its coastline, though it is off the henro trail so I didnt make the detour to see them.

However, a few days before, down near Cape Muroto there was another set.

The most famous Meoto Iwa are near Ise, but in fact there are many all over Japan.

These were on the coast a little south of Fukuoka City.

And these were on the Yamaguchi coast a little north of Shimonoseki.

Inside Kamo Culture Hall

Here are a few shots on the inside of the bizarre Kamo Culture Hall up in Kamo, Izumo.

It was opened in 1994 and was designed by Toyokazu Watanabe.

Unfortunately the auditorium itself was locked so I couldnt get any shots of it

Photo of the outside can be found here

Dainichi-ji Temple 4 Shikoku Pilgrimage

Dainichi-Ji is located in Itano Town, Tokushima Prefecture, and is the 4th temple on the henro route.

According to legend it was founded by Kukai and he carved the main deity sculpture of Dainichi Nyorai. It belongs to the Shingon sect.

The architecture is nothing special, but in a covered corridor connecting the main hall with the Daishi hall are a collection of nice statues.

 

One thing you will see at every temple on the route is a red statue of Kobo daishi himself.

The corridor contains 33 statues of kannon that were donated by someone from Osaka in the mid eighteenth century.

There is a fine statue of Shomen Kongozo, an interesting deity with daoist overtones and a link to the three monkeys. he is known as a deity to pray to for relief from diseases caused by demons.

There is also a nice statue of Benzaiten.

EDIT..... When I first posted this my knowledge of Buddhist figures was very limited. The red statue is of course Binzaru, and I direct you to the excellent comment blow by Ted Taylor for details...

Benkei mask

I have finally got round to finishing some new masks. This one is of Benkei, the archetypal sohei (warrior monk) and famed sidekick of Yoshitsune. The dance he appears in is Tsuzuki Dannoura, which is based on a story in the Heike Monogatari. Popular in kabuki, it is an uncommon dance in the Iwami kagura repertoire, and it has been quite a few years since I have seen it performed.

Benkei is always depicted wearing a cowl and this signifies his status as a sohei.

More posts on Benkei can be found here

sk

More of my masks can be found here.

Kanzui matsuri 3

The third dance at Kanzui's annual all-night matsuri was the first theatrical piece of the evening, Yumi Hachiman. The dance is very common and most matsuris will perform it. the first part of the dance sees Hachiman introduce himself and strut his stuff....

Hachiman, also read as Yahata, was originally a kami from northern Kyushu but grew in influence and became associated with the legendary Emperor Ojin. Eventually adopted as the tutelary deity of samurai he is known as the god of war. Hachiman shrines are now very common, and by one method of calulating are the most common shrines in Japan.

The second part of the dance sees the demon make his entrance, strut his stuff, and then hachiman and he begin their combat.

There are two versions of the demons identity, the first simply has him as a demon from a foreign country plaguing the local villagers in north Kyushu. The second has him as a demon from the lower levels of Buddhist hell. As much of the buddhist content was purged from Iwami Kagura in the late 19th century, It would suggest that tghis version is older.

Not surprisingly, the demon is defeated by Hachiman using a bow and arrows, weapons especially associated with Ojin.

The young junior-highschool boy dancing hachiman did a good job. In larger kagura groups hachiman has an aide.

Art of Manidera

I have often heard it said that if you've been to one temple, you've been to them all, but as time goes on I have found quite the opposite to be true, every temple (and indeed shrine) is quite unique.

 

One of the intriguing aspects of temples for me is the art. The statues, carvings, paintings, and sometimes even masks.

 

japanese buddhism includes a massive array of a sometimes bewildering number of buddhas, deities, and other figures. Sometimes a single piece of art can be quite exquisite, but for me it is more interesting searching for and finding original expressions of the same figure or buddha,

 

here are just a few of the artpieces at Manidera, a mountain temple near Tottori City.

 

Two previous posts on Manidera can be found here

View Larger Map

On the henro trail

Sorry for the scarcity of posts recently. have been down in Shikoku on the henro trail.

Normal service will resume shortly

Oasahiko Shrine

A more than 15 meters tall torii marks the beginning of the 800 meter long approach road to Oasahiko Shrine. The road itself is lined with dozens of stone lanterns.

 

The exact date of the shrines founding is unkown, but it is listed in the Engishiki of the early tenth century, and the shrine grew in importance during the next millenium.

In the middle of the main shrines compound is a huge Camphor tree believed to be over 1,000 years old.

 

The main kami enshrined here are Oasahiko no Okami and Sarutahiko. Oasahiko is the enshrined name of Ame no Tomi, an ancestor of the Imbe clan who was sent by the mythical Emperor Jimmu to find land suitable for hemp cultivation.

Hemp was a very important plant in Japan until Shogun Macarthur outlawed it during the occupation.

Hemp is not mentioned at all at the shrine, and in fact the importance of hemp in Japan has been almost completely removed from history.

View Larger Map