Sunday, October 14, 2012

The Month of Little Sleep part 4


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Around 2:30am the kagura group took a break, something I have never seen before. I suspect that as the village has shrunk, so has the kagura group, and fewer members means each must do more and therefore not get any breaks during the long night. The audience took the opportunity to pull out some food and spread out... All night long Mr Yama operating the barbecue grill outside had been passing free food into us.... fried noodles, barbecued squid, barbecued crab legs..... along with copious amounts of cold beer and sake, so we were full but could not refuse the offers from different groups in the audience who insisted we join them and share their food....this, for me, is the essence of matsuri....

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After the break the action started up  with the Oeyama dance with lots of demons including the favorite of the audience, a junior demon...

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The spiders web trapped the hero but he was of course able to free himself and kill the demon...

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next up was Iwato, usually one of the first dances at a matsuri....

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And then Ebisu, ably assisted by junior Ebisu, distributing lucky candy to everyone in the audience...

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The penultimate dance was Shoki.......

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Outside the sky was lightening and more people had been arriving...... in the countryside people get up at 5... and so it was time for the finale, Susano's battle with the multiheaded Orochi.... It was a small kagura group, so there were only four heads to the serpent, but even so they took all the dance space and spilled out into the audience. An exciting end to a great night..... time to go home to bed and rest up..... in 3 days it would be an Omoto Matsuri up in Nakano....

Friday, October 12, 2012

The Month of Little Sleep part 3


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Sunday night was matsuri downriver in Kawahira, a village I always enjoy visiting because of the friendliness and genrosity of the villagers....

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The hachiman dance was in full swing as we arrived around 11pm. Unusually, Hachiman and his aide were being danced by two young women. Girls and women dancing kagura is unusual. A few groups have started to allow girls to dance, but it is not the norm.

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Even more unusual was the fact that these two young women were not from the village, they were not even from the area. They are students at the university up in Matsue and for the past year they have been making the 2 hour drive once a week to come down and practise in the village. They danced well and the villagers were very appreciative of their help in maintaining the traditions....

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Next dance was Suzukuyama, a classic battle between the good guys and the demon.

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Past midnight and the next generation of dancers and fans are still keeping up.....

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Next was Yasogami, and extra long dance because of the stand-up routines and pantomime and slapstick. In this scene one of the brothers attempts to woo, unsuccessfully, the princess....

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1:30am and Jinrin starts up....

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

The Month of Little Sleep part 2


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Walking back from the matsuri at Ichiyama we stopped in at the matsuri at Kaewado. We got there about 3am.

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The kenmai dance has just started....

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Followed by a different version of Kakko.....

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And then a really good version of Jinrin.....

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The finale was Kurozuka with the demonic white fox.....

and the sky was lightening and time to wander home across the river....

Monday, October 8, 2012

The Month of Little Sleep part 1


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For me, the month of October has to be "The Month Of Little Sleep". In our area the rice has been harvested and now it is time for matsuri, and around here matsuri means all night kagura. Every village has their own matsuri and there are some I try to visit every year as well as many I have not had time to visit yet.... the first for me this year was saturday night in Ichiyama...

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Got there around 10pm and the Iwato dance was just starting....

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Next dance was Hachiman with the almost obligatory demon/hero battle.... I keep rooting for the demons but they never win.....

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Next up was a ceremonial dance, Kenmai, which means "sword dance" but involved no swords. It was seperated from the sword part of the dance which is performed at Omoto Kagura.....

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Next up was Jimmu, a dance based on the exploits of the mythical first emperor of Japan who subjugated the various clans and tribes of Western Japan in his invasion from Kyushu to kansai....

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Next up was Kakko, a dance about a comedic figure who steals a sacred drum and attempts to unlock its power.....

Around 2:30am,  we took our leave of the good folks in Ichiyama and started to walk towards home...

More information about these dances, including videos, can be found by clicking on the labels of this post...

Saturday, October 6, 2012

Hasso Daishi

Hasso Daishi



I passed by this little temple as I was walking between Temple 14 and Temple 15 of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, and was struck by its unusual color scheme.



It wasn't marked on the guide maps I was using, but it enshrines Iwafune Jizoson and the Hasso Daishi.



Hasso Daishi are the Eight Patriarchs of the esoteric teachings that became known as Shingon in Japanese. Beginning with Nagarjuna, the first five were Indian, the sixth and seventh were Chinese, and it was from the seventh, Huiguo, that Kukai, the eighth and final one, received the title.



The ornamentation on the roof certainly seems to me to be Chinese. This temple is listed as bangai #44 of 50. As well as the 88 regular temples of the pilgrimage there are 20 "bangai" temples. There are also another 200 "bangai" sites that have a connection with Kukai so maybe there are 50 in Tokusthima.



Maybe the cat is the ninth?

Thursday, October 4, 2012

More Manhole birds


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A unique bird is featured on the manhole for Nankoku in Kochi, the Onaga Dori, or Long tailed Cock has the longest feathers in the world that have been known to reach 10 meters in length. The birds have been bred here since the early Edo Period. The local daimyo used to use the feathers to decorate spears carried in his processions to Edo.

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Haruno, also in Kochi features what I believe is a Japanese Wagtail, but I may be mistaken...

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Ozu, in Ehime Prefecture, like Miyoshi in Hiroshima, still practise the ancientbart of fishing with cormorants...

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In Kurayoshi, Tottori, a type of duck is featured.... I have been unable to find out why

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Finally, Yuu in Yamaguchi features a kingfisher, kawasemi. There are numerous species of Kingfisher, but I presume this is the Common Kingfisher.

Monday, October 1, 2012

Akiyoshido details


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The cavern of Akiyoshido has numerous features that have all been given evocative names.... this one is called 1,000 Rice Paddies....

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There are of course lots of stalagmites and stalagtites.....

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Its the biggest cavern in Japan and located in Mine City, Yamaguchi...

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This one is named "King of the Cavern"...

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This may well be Jellyfish Climbing Waterfall....

Sunday, September 30, 2012

Vacation 2011 Day 20 Essouira


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And so.... the daily grind of vacation rolls on..... up before the sun, but before the moon is down..... the gulls all sit and look to the east....

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And yet another glorious sunrise.....

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And then to breakfast.... and after breakfast its time to lounge around in the hotel and drink coffee. By my usual standards it was a luxury hotel.... two riads joined together... light streaming down from the central courtyard...

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And then off to wander the alleys in search of doors to photograph.....

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I wandered into the old Jewish Quarter.... looked like a postwar bombsite with many shells of derelict buildings, but a few inhabitants still...

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And then time to relax on the seawall and watch the sun goes down....

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Kobe Earthquake Museum


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The Kobe Earthquake Museum is the short version of The Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake Memorial Museum which is part of the Disaster Reduction and Human Renovation Institute.

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It is near the Hyogo Prefectural Museum of Art along the waterfront in Kobe.

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It was designed by Showa Sekkei, who also designed the nearby Fashion Museum and opened in 2002.

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Supposedly the unusual double-skinned glass structure is built to withstand an earthquake of any magnitude..

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Thursday, September 27, 2012

Shikoku 88 Temple 16 Kan-onji


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Situated in the suburbs of Tokushima, temple 16 of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, Kannonji, doesnt look at all interesting, though that may have been colored by my own mood, coming to the end of a long few days and only a few hours away from a hotel, bed, and bath....

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The gate was quite nice, though the nio were missing. Only the white-clad pilgrims gave any clue that this was not just a suburban temple.

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Reputedly built in the middle of the eigth century, Kukai later visited and carved the Thousand-armed Kannon and installed it as the main deity. The temple belongs to the Shingon sect.

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I didnt see it, but there is supposed to be a painting of a woman on fire, donated by the woman herself, who believed she was burned as punishment for the sins of her youth....

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