Monday, January 13, 2014

Kitsune of Shikoku 2


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The second installment of photos of fox statues taken on the Shikoku Pilgrimage.
This first one is at the Yosakoi Inari Shrine in Kochi City.

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Fox (kitsune) statues will be found at Inari shrines where they serve as guardians. Inari is therefore often erroneously called the Fox God. Actually I was surprised at how few Inari shrines I found on Shikoku compared to some other areas of Japan. This one was at a small shrine in Ehime, not far from temple 40.

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This one is at a sub-shrine in the grounds of Taga Shrine, a fertility shrine, in Uwajima, Ehime.

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Ryukoji, the 41st temple, was originally part of an Inari Shrine, but the two were separated in 1868.

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Wearing a tail-warmer, Taisanji, temple 52 near Matsuyama.

Friday, January 10, 2014

Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage Temple 7 Komyoji

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Komyoji, the seventh temple on the Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage is on a mountaintop, Johirayama, overlooking the Ibi River in the Hikawa District. It has a fine pair of Nio.


All temple records were lost so it is not known for sure when it was founded, though a local legend says early in the ninth Century. It is now a Soto zen temple.


A specially constructed building houses what is known as the "Korean Bell", which dates from the fifteenth Century. Almost certainly this was looted from Korea during Hideyoshi's late 16th Century invasion.


The priest wasn't home.... he passed me driving down the mountain while I was walking up, but some of his robes were hung out to dry in the porch of his house.


There are some nice views over the surrounding countryside. This is only the third day of this pilgrimage but it is shaping up to be an interesting and enjoyable one.

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Shoin Shrine, Hagi.


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One of the most popular tourist sites in Hagi is the Shoin Shrine which enshrines Yoshida Shoin.

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Shoin was a local samurai who took part in the anti-shogunate activities that lead up to the Meiji Restoration of 1868, though he was executed in 1859 for his part in an assassination attempt, therefore the shrine is very much a part of modern shinto that emphasised those who supported the emperor and his rule.

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The shrine was established in 1890 and moved to its present location in 1950.

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Before his death he operated a school that now stands in the grounds of the shrine and many of the future leaders of the Meiji government were taught by him, including Ito Hirobumi, Japands first Prime Minister.

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Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Monday, December 30, 2013

Kanbara Shrine & Tomb



Kanbara Shrine is a little further down the river from Unochi Shrine, but was until recently about a hundred meters from its current location. It was moved when they discovered it had been built on top of a kofun, a mounded tomb....


The three main kami enshrined here are Okuninushi, Iwatsutsuwo, & Iwatsutsune, the latter two being the parents of Futsunushi, the kami from the Kuniyuzuri Myth who arranged the transfer of Japan to Amaterasu's descendants from Okuninushi.


Among the grave goods found in the excavated tomb was a bronze mirror dated 239, which was the year the legendary "queen of Wa" Himiko sent an envoy to China and received one hundred bronze mirrors.


The design of the mirror found here was the one that has been called Himiko Mirrors, but more than 100 have been found. Doing a bit of research for this post I read a convincing argument by one historian that these mirrors were manufactured in Japan by immigrant Chinese craftsmen.


I have often read that "shinto" has an aversion to death, but in western Japan at least I have found quite a few shrines that have been constructed on top of tombs.

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Saturday, December 28, 2013

Shikinaen


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Shikinaen is the garden built around a secondary palace of the Rykuan Royal Family not far from Shuri Castle in Naha. Being Okinawan it includes both Japanese and Chinese styles. An earlier post on the palace, the Udun, can be found here.

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Most fascinating for me was one of the bridges made out of uncut, sharp and gnarly limestone rocks.

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There is also a small pavilion but unfortunately cannot be entered.

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What makes the garden interesting is the exotic plants that cannot be found in mainland Japanese gardens. There are also views over Naha.

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Saturday, December 21, 2013

By way of explanation


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Some people get confused by this blog. Many blogs are diaries in chronological form, but mine jumps backwards and forward in time and space. There are a few themes that I return to regularly, manhole designs being one. All the manhole posts can be found by clicking the manhole tag.
Modern architecture is another interest..... click on the architecture tag
I try to post about all the critters I encounter.... click on the fauna tag
I do post vacation snaps... Morocco being a favored destination
Though I havent posted much recently I visit a lot of matsuris, most of which involve Iwami Kagura

Most posts however are concerning my walks around Japan. Currently I am posting about
Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage
Kyushu 108 temple Pilgrimage
Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage
Iwami 33 Kannon Pilgrimage
also
a 3 day walk across the Aki Nada Islands
a 5 day walk across the Kunisaki Peninsula
and a 3 day walk from Honshu to Shikoku starting with the Onomichi Temple Walk.

I post a little from each walk rather than a continuous and chronological sequence from just one.

One topic that is heavily represented is shrines, and an index can be found here.

there are now over 1100 posts, and over the years I have tweeked the code and its all getting a little messy, so I am hoping to start a new blog in what I think will be a better format early in the new year.

Till then I am off walking.........

so seasons greetings to you all

feedback is always appreciated




Thursday, December 19, 2013

Hachizu Shrine


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After leaving Usa Hachimangu and heading towards the Kunisaki Peninsula I chose to avoid the main road and instead headed through the back roads through the village of Hachizu where I stopped in at Hachizu Shrine.

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There is a very unusual mix of kami enshrined here, the primary being Amenominakanushi, by some accounts the first kami to come into being, yet very little is known or written about him. There were apparently no ancient shrines deicated to him, but in the Meiji era when the buddhas and kami were seperated, many shrines chose to rename Myoken, the deity of the North Star, Amenominakanushi....

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The next is Yaekotoshironushi, another version of the name Kotoshironushi, the son of Okuninushi and now more commonly equated with Ebisu. Then there is the pair of kami Mikahayahi and Hihahayahi who who created out of blood dripping from the sword that Izanagi used to kill the god of fire. Finally there is Uganomitama, the female aspect of Inari.

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I am guessing that the pile of rice straw is to make new shimenawa. Secondary shrines within the grounds include Kibune, Tenjin, Konpira, Gion, Inari, Dosojin, and Wakamiya.

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Sunday, December 15, 2013

Along the Road.....Azaleas & Haniwa



After leaving Unochi Shrine I continued downstream towards the first temple on this leg of my Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. It was May, and the azaleas that lined the road were stunning.


The local manhole cover doesnt feature azaleas though, rather cosmo flowers....


Within the azalea bushes were miniature replicas of Haniwa, the terra cotta figurines, often over a meter in height, that surrounded the ancient burial mounds. According to the ancient chronicles the haniwa were created to replace the practice of sacrificial  live human burials along with deceased leaders. Most Japanese insist that such things never happened, though usualy the chronicles are treated as gospel.


Quite probably these roadside decorations are because a little way down the road is quite an important burial mound.

Kami Kamagari Island


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After crossing the Kamagari Bridge from Shimokamagari Island I had two choices of route to cross Kami kamagari Island, one road hugs the north coast, and one the south. I chose the south as it appeared to be less populated and after crossing the bridge I noticed most traffic taking the north route. The view to the south across small islands towards Shikoku I also expected to be nicer than looking at mainland Hiroshima.

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There were no houses along the road, but there were a couple of big quarries biting huge holes out of the steep slopes.

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Looks to me like they were producing aggregate and there were several small piers extending into the sea which is obviously how the material was transported out.

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Occasionaly a small beach appeared. Supposedly the southern peninsular of the island is home to the best beach in Hiroshima, and one of the top 100 beaches of Japan, but I did not venture to that part of the island.

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High up on the mountainside I could see a large statues of Kannon, but no way was I going to climb up to investigate.

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The road veered away from the coast, avoiding the settlements, and plunged through a new tunnel to emerge at the bridge taking me over to the next island, my destination for the evening.