An unexpected Matsuri

On the afternoon of September 4th, 2011, I was approaching Byodo-ji, Temple 22 of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, when I spied a torii with banners flying, a sign that a matsuri is underway.

As I got closer I could hear the shouts of children which suggested that the matsuri was underway at the moment. For me, there is no greater pleasure than coming upon a matsuri, especially one in a rural village shrine.

It was a Yasaka Shrine, a branch of the famous shrine in Kyoto formerly lnown as Gionsha. The main kami is Susano, and also many of his "family", which is kind of apt as he is known as the kami of storms and the last 2 days this area has been hit with a massive typhoon.

There wasn't anything going on right now. Kids were running around and playing, and a small group of the village elders were inside eating and drinking. They invited me in for food and beer, and though daytime drinking in the heat of the day is not a usual habit of mine, as I was a pilgrim I could not refuse their offer.
After a second beer I insisted I had to leave and they showed me a path leading out of the shrine which was a shortcut over the hill to Byodo-ji

Serida Shrine

It may look like a small inconspicuous village shrine, but Serida Shrine has some vintage. It is listed in the Izumo Fudoki, so has existed since before the 7th Century, and is also listed in the Engi Shiki, therefore it received offerings from the imperial government in the Heian period.

The main kami enshrined here is listed as Kanayamabiko, who came into existence from the vomit of Izanami as she was dying after giving birth to fire. However, according to an excellent website on the history of iron in Japan at Hitachi Metals, it was probably called Kanayago before the Meiji Period.

Kanayago is a very popular kami among iron and metal workers and the head kanayago shrine is a little east of here. The Chugoku region and especially this part of Izumo was a main center for iron production in ancient times, and there are many Kanayago shrines.

Also enshrined here is Izanami and Kotosakano and Hayatamano, the latter two being the kami that came into existence at the time of Izanagi's oath of divorce from Izanami. Curiously they are linked with Izanami here rather than Izanagi.

This area is between the entrance to Yomi where Izanagi visited Izanami, and Izamani's tomb on top of Mt. Hiba.

Naka Homan Shrine

Climbing out of the Fukuoka Plain on a small road that leads over to the next pilgrimage temple I spied a torii and went to investigate and found Naka Homan Shrine.

Less than a kilometer away is Homan Shrine, and I'm guessing this was built as a branch of it in 1675.

The three kami listed are Tamayorihime, Okinagatarashihime, and Homuda Wake. The latter two are more commonly known as Empress Jingu and Emperor Ojin, but this is not called a Hachimangu. According to the myth Jingu gave birth to Ojin not too far from here in Umi.

Exactly who Tamayorihime is remains a mystery. There are several famous kami with the same name as it really just means a woman who lies down with a kami and bears his child. However, Mount Homan is not far away and on it is Kamado Shrine, built to protect Dazaifu from the NE direction. A female kami appeared and said she was Tamayorihime and protected this mountain. The main Homan shrine near here, that this shrine is a branch of, is near a tomb that local legend says contains Tamayorihime. 

The previous post in this series exploring my walk along the Kyushu pilgrimage was on Chiroku Shrine.

Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage Temple 14 Renge-ji

Like so many of the temples on this pilgrimage, Rengeji has great views over the inner Izumo area.

The Kannon sculpture that is the honzon is dated to the mid eighth century so that suggest the temple will date from that time too.

Now it belongs to the Soto Zen sect, but earlier it was a Tendai temple.

There is a spring behind the temple that legend says has healing powers and people still come here to collect the water.

Toko-ji Temple, Hagi

The gate to Tokoji in Hagi has a somewhat Chinese feel because it is an Obaku Zen Temple founded in 1691. Obaku was a new sect of Zen founded by Chinese monks who came to Nagasaki to serve the Chinese community there.

Tokoji was founded by the third Mori lord as a second temple housing the graves of the Mori and their wives. The 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, and 11th Lords are buried here. The other are buried at Daishoin on the other side of town.

Most of the structures date from the 17th Century and are listed Cultural Properties. The temple complex is much reduced in size from earlier times, but it is still quite large and spacious, set in woods on the eastern edge of town.

The honzon, the principle deity statue, is Shaka Nyorai, which in English we would call the historical Buddha.

Ayo Shrine

Ayo Shrine is a small village shrine at the base of the mountain on which is located Rengeji, the 14th temple on the Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. The two kami enshrined here are Susano and Kunitokotachi. Susano is well known and prevalent throughout this area, but this was the first time I encountered Kunitokotachi.

Which is actually kind of surprising since Kunitokotachi was the first kami to come into existence. Out of chaos heaven and earth separated and in the space between Kunitokotachi emerged out of "something like a reed". That is according to 4 sources in the Nihonshoki. In the Kojiki,  Amenominakanushi was first, and when the Kojiki was revived in the 19th Century Amenominakanushi started to receive more attention. It is generally believed that the first stories in the ancient myths concerned with the creation of the universe are Chinese in origin.

The shrine has a fine example of Izumo-style shimenawa and a nice ancient tree.

Manhole Ohanami

The annual cherry blossom viewing season is now over for most of Japan, but the cherry blossom can be seen year round by looking down. Not surprisingly given its cultural prominence the sakura appears as a design element in many, like this first one from Tadotsu in Kagawa, Shikoku.

It features as a minor design element in countless designs, like this one from Kamo Town in Izumo.

As I sorted through my files to find these I was expecting sakura to much more common than it is. I was surprised to find the Azalea being more common. The sakura above is from Mizukami in Kumamoto.

From Miyahara, also in Kumamoto, also featuring a rose.

From Toyoshi in Kagawa, with azaleas in the center.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum and Park was completed in 1955 following a competition to find a design in 1949. It was designed by Kenzo Tange, and brought him to international recognition.

It is generally considered to be the first Modernist piece of architecture in Japan and is considered the birth of post-war architecture.

The park and structures are laid out along an axis that points directly to what is now referred to as the A Bomb Dome, the ruin that stands at the epicenter of the blast.

One of the focal points is the Peace Flame located at the Cenotaph.

Since its original building in 1955 many new structures and monuments have been constructed in the park. In 1994 the Tange designed Memorial Hall was added.

Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage Day 6, May 19th, 2012

The sixth day of my walk along the Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage route was as glorious as the previous few days. Like the last 2 days my route lay roughly east through the mountains.

The spine of western japan is the Chugoku Mountains, and here on the northern side the rivers run mostly north towards the sea, so my easterly route involved a lot of up and down. The last 2 days I had been in the watershed of the Hi River, the site of the Yamata no Orochi myth, but todays I should pass over into another watershed.

After leaving Hinobori I crossed over to the next valley and then started the climb up to the first pilgrimage temple of the day.....

Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage Temple 24 Hotsumisakiji

Temple 24, Hotsumisaki-ji, is the first of the pilgrimage temples in Kochi and is located at the tip of Cape Muroto.

It is one of the few temples that has historical rather than legendary links to Kobo Daishi, being located on the hilltop above the cave where he spent 3 years until achieving enlightenment. he founded the temple in 805.

It was here that he took the name Kukai. It is a Shingon temple and the honzon (main deity) is Kokuzo Bosatsu, the deity that Kukai chanted to a million times. It was reputedly carved by Kukai.

It is a very popular site for visitors, and there is a large lodgings facility for pilgrims, but when I stayed there in September I was the only guest.

In the grounds is a large boulder with indentations. Supposedly if the boulder is hit with rocks different musical tones are emitted. I didnt try it so I can't vouch for the veracity.