Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage Day 7 Yakumo to Hirose

The seventh day of my walk along the Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage promised to be yet another fine May day.

My route is going to take me southeast into the mountains where there is a mountaintop temple to visit before dropping down the other side into the Hirose valley.

There are no settlements of any size along the route, so no shops, although I have never been down this road before.

Once the road ascends into the higher country the number of farmhouses drops, and there are just isolated farmhouses..... some abandoned.

Some not yet abandoned.

I will be stopping by at all the roadside shrines and altars I pass on the lookout for interesting statues etc.

Kifune Shrine, Saigi, Usa

Wandering around the countryside in the Fall it is easy to notice shrines and temples by the brilliant foliage of ginko trees. Unfortunately this small village shrine in Saigi near Usa station,  had no signboard and there was no-one around to ask for details, so all I know is  it is a Kifune Shrine.

200 meters away and 1 kilometer away were two other shrines named Kibune, though they were written with different kanji, but all three are in all probability branches of the Kifune Shrine in Kibune, just north of Kyoto.

The two main kami are Takaokami no kami and Kuraokami no kami, both connected to water sources and according to myth created from the drops of blood when Izanagi killed the kami of fire that killed Izanami.

There were several smaller shrines in the grounds, including this one to another type of water kami. The door was open and the shintai, the object that the kami resides in when it descends, was a rock. The vast majority of the shintai I have seen have been rocks.

Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, Temple 16 Fusai-ji

The 16th temple of the pilgrimage is just a few hundred meters from Kumano Taisha, and not surprisingly it has historical links with the shrine.

All that exists is the single Kannon Hall enshrining an Eleven Faced Kannon. It is a Soto Zen temple and is in the grounds of Joe-ji, a temple founded by the Amago Clan. It is also a Soto temple.

Fusaiji was moved here from its original site about 100 years ago. It was located on Tengu Mountain, the mountain behind Kumano Taisha that was the original shrine enshrining Susano. The Kannon was associated with a water source on the mountain.

So, almost halfway through the temples, but less than halfway distancewise It was time to head home fro a break. From the temple down into Yakumo was just a few kilometers, and from there I could catch a bus.

Ohama, Osaki Shimojima Island

Up at the crack of dawn I crossed over the bridge from Teshima onto Osaki Shimojima Island and started to walk around the south coast towards Mitarai.

It was so early the local inhabitants were not up and about, choosing to sit on the sea wall.....

In the village of Ohama I stopped in at the two village shrines.

There were a few small fishing boats in the little harbor but no activty....

Looking back to Ohama, the sun about to poke above the mountains...... It promised to be a fine morning walk.

Kumano Taisha

Kumano Taisha

Kumano Taisha was the most important shrine in Izumo for centuries before Izumo Taisha supplanted it in the late Heian Period. Empress Saimei ordered the shrine built in the mid 7th Century. Before that the shrine was the mountain behind it.

The kami is Susano, which is not surprising since it is located in the heart of Susano country. There are numerous other shrines within the compund, the two major ones being to Izanami, Susano's "mother", and Kushinada, his "wife".

No one can know for sure why Saimei ordered its construction, but it seems likely to me that she was engaged in attempt to unify the provinces under Yamato control to fight against the threat of Sila. She died leading an army in Kyushu on the way to the Korean Peninsula to help their ally (relatives?) in Paekche who was threatened by Sila. After her death the Yamato forces suffered a humiliating defeat by Sila so it is not often mentioned in histories.

An unusual building with a thatched rood and walls covered in cedar bark houses sacred fire-making tools used in rituals at Izumo Taisha, the fire made from the tools is used to cook rice to be offered to the gods. Before Meiji the fire would also have been used to cook the food for the new head priest rituals.

The annual Sankasai ritual is when the priests come from Izumo Taisha to borrow the fire-making tools. They bring with them a long rice cake as an offering. The Kumano priests complain about the rice cake and insist it should be made according to their specifications, but eventually relent and make it themselves as it is too far for the Izumo taisha priests to go back to make a better cake, but the Kumano priests insist that next year the Izumo priests must make a better cake.

Mount Senkoji Ropeway

Mt. Senkoji is only 140 meters high, but it does go right down to the sea and is fairly steep, so the ropeway is a good way to get up.

I havent been on to many ropeways that are so urban. On the way up it passes directly over a lot of houses and of course offers nice views.

Its not often you get to look down on a cemetery.

Closer to the top it passes near Senko-ji, the temple the mountain is named after.

From the top there are great views over Onomichi and across the channel to the islands...

New Akaoni Mask

After a very long time of being too busy with regular and unexpected chores, I finally was prompted by an order to get around to finishing a new mask.

It's actually the third Red Demon I've sold outside of Japan. Its probably popular because it is so similar to the western/christian conception of a devil.

I have about 20 more masks getting closer to completion, including my first kitsune. Hopefully when the rain y season arrives to curtail garden work I will have the time to finish..........

Ushio Shrine

Ushio Shrine was the last shrine I visited before heading over the pass out of the Hi watershed. It is named after the Ushio clan who had a small "castle" on top of the mountain behind the shrine. They were vassals of the Amago.

It is yet another shrine in the area that is listed in both the Izumo Fudoki, and the Engi Shiki. The main kami enshrined here is Unojihiko, the same kami enshrined at Unochi Shrine that I visited earlier in the pilgrimage.
For details I refer you to that post. It is worth mentioning that according to the myth he caused Lake Shinji to rise in an attempt to drown his father, and supposedly the water level reached this point, which is quite remarkable considering how much higher this place is than Unochi Shrine.

Within the grounds are smaller shrines to Hachiman, Inari, Ebisu, and Aragami.

From here the road forks, the road heading north goes to Suga Shrine, a major shrine connected to Susano. The road I take heads west to Kumano Taisha, once the most important shrine in Izumo, also connected to Susano.

Japanese paper Lanterns

Chochin, Japanese paper lanterns are particularly associated with matsuri, like this first photo at a summer matsuri in Shima, Mie.

These were on the beach at one of my favorite local matsuri, at Kuromatsu near Gotsu.

They are also found in shrines, like these at the shrine across the river in Kawado.

On the street for the Gonokawa matsuri in Gotsu.

Some of the big and famous shrines have impressive lantern displays like here at Yasaka Shrine in Gion, Kyoto.

Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage Temple 15 Koanji

Koan-ji was founded in the early 8th Century, Tempyo 11. Now it is a Soto sect zen temple.

Originally it belonged to the Hosso sect, one of the 6 original sects based in Nara.

It was the family temple for one of the retainers of the Amago clan who ruled the area before being ousted by the Mori.

It is not known how old the wonderful ceiling painting of a dragon is, b ut it is obviously old.

It is the last temple of the pilgrimage in the Hi River watershed.