Togo Hachimangu

The entrance to the long approach to Togo Hachimangu is, like many shrines here on the Kunisaki Peninsula, flanked by a pair of stone Nio. This pair look as if they are having a conversation by cellphone.

In the grounds are several smaller shrines, one almost certainly being the local land kami that would have been enshrined here before the Hachiman shrine was. The Hachiman cult spread in this area centuries before on Honshu.

There was no signboard and I can find no other information, though for sure the prefecture has records on all the shrines I don't have the book for Oita.

The Honden is in traditional Usa Hachiman style, This is on the old pilgrimage route that started at Usa Hachimangu and went into and around the many sacred sites scattered across the peninsula. From here the land rises more steeply towards the high point at the middle of the peninsula.

There was no name attached to this small statue, though he is holding a shaku, a flat wooden scepter used nowadays primarily by Shinto priests, though in historical times it was used by aristocrats during rituals.

Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage Temple 29 Asahidera

The familiar figure of a Fudo Myo statue marks my way up  Mount Asahi towards the 29th temple located near the summit at 324 meters, and named after the mountain itself.

Yet another temple reputed to be founded by the prolific Gyoki, it is now a Shingon temple with the honzon being an 11 faced Kannon. Mount Asahi is a kannabiji, a mountain considered to be sacred and one of many mentioned in the Izumo Fudoki.

Unusual nowadays because the road does not reach all the way to the temple itself, so a trail through the dark forest leads to the final flight of stone steps.

For the elderly priest who still lives there and for some of his guests there is a small railway of the kind favored by construction workers or others who must work on steep slopes like the orange growers on some of the islands in the Inland Sea. This is the first time I have seen one used for passengers.

Great views can be had down onto Lake Shinji.

More Mitarai

Mitarai, a small port on Osaki Shimozima Island in the Inland Sea is a truly delightful step back in time. Much of the small town is an Historic Preservation District containing Edo period buildings and narrow lanes. Hopefully the character of the town will not be lost now that it is possible to reach it easily by car from the mainland. I will post some more on specific location sites in the town but for now a few more general shots.

This gentleman used to be a boatbuilder but now his boats are miniature replicas.

There are quite a few of these districts throughout Japan that are still far enough off the main tourist routes that they can be enjoyed quietly.

The product that brought prosperity to the port was sex. More on that later.

A small shop had this pair of masks on display, though they appear to me to be Namahage, which are not local but from the north of Japan.

Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage temple 28 Jyoso-ji

The Nio gate to Jyoso-ji is some distance from the temple itself, though the temple complex was much larger in earlier times. It is said that the temple was founded by Gyoki, which would make it early 8th Century.

It is also said that Gyoki carved the Nio, and while they are fairly old I am certain that is a rather fanciful legend.

Located in the mountains behind Sada Shrine, the temple was the Okunoin (inner sanctuary) of that shrine. It now belongs to the Shingon sect.

In front of the main hall is a 450 year old plum tree, but it had long since past its blooming when I visited in June.

The main hall has some fine dragon carvings above the entrance.

Misode Tenmangu

Misode Tenmangu in Onomichi is built on the spot where Sugawara Michizane stopped and rested in 901 while on his way to exile in Kyushu. The locals apparently were kind to him and in return he cut off one sleeve of his kimono and painted a picture of himself on it.

That piece of fabric is the goshintai of the shrine. There is an Inari shrine in the grounds, and several others but I was unable to find out which.

As well as students hoping to do well in exams, quite a lot of movie buffs visit the shrine as it was featured in a well known movie and featured in a famous anime.

The 54 steps leading up to the shrine are interesting. They are 5 meters wide and each one is carved out of a single piece of stone.

Sada Shrine

Sada Shrine, located north of Matsue, was once the most important shrine in the Izumo region. Enshrined in the central honden are 5 kami, the main one being Sadano Okami, along with Izanagi and Izanami, and the pair Hayatamano and Kotosakano. Izanagi and Izanami are well known, and in Izumo, Hayatamano and Kotosakano, 2 kami associated with the "divorce" of Izanagi and Izanami are also fairly common. Little is known of the main kami though except he is known as the protector of the Shimane Peninsula. He was born in a nearby sea cave called kaganokukedo and some posts on that can be found here.

The right (north) honden enshrines the Imperial kami: Amaterasu, and her grandson Ninigi. The left honden enshrines Susano, and something called Hisetsu Yonchu, which I think means "hidden four poles", about which I can find no information.

Sada Shrine is one of the many shrines where the mass kami of Japan arrive in November during kamiarizuki, though it is widely reported that they all go to Izumo Taisha.

Sada Shrine is also home to the UNESCO registered Sada Shin Noh. a form of Noh-influenced kagura that is believed to have influenced satokagura nationwide.

When I first explored this area many years ago I found it interesting to klearn that the earliest known yayoi site in Izumo was found in this valley indicating perhaps that this is where the proto-Japanese first settled in the region which would explain Sada shrines importance.

Takada Hachimangu

Being a mask maker myself, one of the things I am always hoping to find in my explorations of shrines are masks, so I was absolutely delighted to discover these masks in Takada Hachimangu.

Located in a small mountain settlement at the base of Mount Sanbe, the highest mountains in Iwami, the hachimangu is a fairly standard village shrine.

About a hundred years ago the government closed down half the shrines in the country, so probably there were more shrines in this village that had their kami moved here, but there was no sign so I was unable to find out. As a Hachimangu it enshrines primarily Hachiman.

Like many shrines in remote areas it was not locked so I was able to look inside.

The masks were a revelation because they were in a style I am not familiar with. Though in Iwami they are not in Iwami kagura style. As I explored more shrines later in the day I found many more examples of this style.

Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage Temple 27 Senko-ji

The Izumo 33 Kannon Pilgrimage is obviously still quite populkar judging by the number of Osamefuda left on thye doors of the Kannon-do.

Actually the Kannon-do is named Chofuku-ji and the main hall next door is called Senko-ji, suggesting that the Kannon-do was a separate temple relocated to this site.

It is a Soto Zen temple, and the main deity is a Thousand-Armed Kannon.

Hitsu Shrine

Usually when I am walking a pilgrimage I have studied the maps and have a pretty good idea of what shrines I will be passing, but Hitsu Shrine was a surprise as it was not marked on the maps, though it most obviously is a shrine.

The main kami is Futsunushi, a martial kami connected with swords. here in Izumo it is most strongly connected to the Mononobe Clan, though it was taken over by the Nakatomi-Fujiwara when they wiped out the Mononobe. In Izumo it was Futsunushi who arranged the handover of Japan to the Yamato in the Kuniyuzuri myth.

Within the grounds was a Wakamiya Shrine, though it did not indicate which kami was enshrined in it, possibly hachiman. There was also a small Inari Shrine.

Behind the main shrine was a Kojin altar with the rope serpent wrapped around a tree.

Japanese Ducks

There are many species of ducks in Japan, but I believe these are Kamo, the common mallard.

They were and are eaten, and their arrival in the Autumn was used as a seasonal marker in poetry.

There has recently been a renewed interest in the use of domesticated ducks in rice agriculture. Traditionally they were used to control weeds and insects in the paddies as well as adding fertilizer.

All these were photographed in Chofu, Yamaguchi.