Tuesday, October 24, 2023

Kozanji Temple Tanabe

 


Kozanji is a popular temple complex with large cemetery and grounds in Tanabe, Wakayama.


It is said to have been founded by Kobo Daishi, though another source suggests it was founded much earlier during the time of Shotoku Taishi.


The Tahoto, Shingon-style pagoda, has become the symbol of the temple. It was built in 1816 and is dedicated to Prince Shotoku.


Other buildings include 2 Yakushi-do's, a Daishi-do, a Fudo-do, and a Kannon-do.


During the Warring States Period, in the late 17th century the temple was destroyed during Hideyoshi's invasion of the area, but was rebuilt later and in the Edo Period changed its name to Kozanji.


It was pouring with rain when I visited on my way out of Tanabe heading north along the Kumano Kodo towards Osaka on the 5th day of my walk along the Saigoku Pilgrimage.


Many people visit Kozanji to pay respect at the grave of Ueshiba Morihei (1883-1969), a locally-born  man who is known as the founder of the martial art called Aikido.


With millions of practitioners in more than 140 countries world-wide, some make the pilgrimage to his grave here.


Another of Tanabe's famous sons buried here is Munakata Kumagusu, an eccentric scientist who is gaining in notoriety and is sometimes referred to as the first environmentalist in Japan.


As well as being the site of his grave, the grounds of the temple were a place he spent a lot of time collecting specimens, and where it is believed his campaign against the government program of shrine closures took form.


The previous post in this series on the Saigoku Pilgrimage was the former residence of Minakata Kumagusu.


Saturday, October 21, 2023

Ryushoji Temple 64 Kyushu Pilgrimage

 


Ryushoji, the 64th temple on the 108 temple Shingon Pilgrimage around Kyushu, is  located just off the main road that crosses over the Shimabara Peninsula just south of Unzen Mountain.


The temple is high enough up the lower slopes of the mountain to have great views down and over the Ariake Sea to Kumamoto.


The temple is visible from some distance because of the huge, brightly colored statues of Fudo Myo standing more than 13 meters tall.


At its base are another couple of brightly-painted Fudo statues.


When I first visited in 2014 the newly built main hall was still behind scaffolding and blue tarps, but it opened in 2015. I revisited a few years later while walking the Kyushu Fudo Myo Pilgrimage.


The temple suffered no damage during the eruptions of the 1990's, though it did receive a lot of ash and the road which heads on up to Unzen Hot Springs was closed for a while.


The honzon is a Dainichi Nyorai, but I can find no other information or dates for the temple.


The previous post in this series chronicling day 62 of my walk along the pilgrimage was on the buried houses of the Unzen disaster.


Friday, October 20, 2023

Temples 24 to 27 Shodoshima Pilgrimage

 


Early on my third day walking the Shodoshima Pilgrimage I visited a small group of temples in close proximity to each other. Temples 24 to 27 are just off the main road on the south coast,  adjacent to one of the most popular tourist attractions on the island, the Olive Park.


Temple 24,  Anyoji, has a Daisho-do, Jizo-do, and a bell tower as well as the main hall and the priests residence. The grounds have some nice Camelia trees.


The buildings are all fairly modern, circa 1990 with several nice kinds of onigawara tiles.


It is claimed that the temple was founded by Gyoki and later revived in the 17th century. The honzon is a Kannon.


A footpath leads up the hill to the next temple which has no vehicular access.


Temple 25, Seiganji-an, is a much smaller, more rustic establishment.


At the top of the hill, the honzon of Seiganji-an is a Yakushi Nyorai.


A little further along the trail is a well with a Jizo-do.


This is the okunoin of temple 26, Amidaji.  The well, called Omizu Daishi, is very popular and is one of countless water sources attributed to Kobo Daishi himself.


The Jizo is an Enmei Jizo, a "long life" Jizo.


Near the well the asphalt starts again and leads down to temple 27 before coming to 26. Sometimes the route for walking pilgrims differs from that for the more numerous car pilgrims.


Temple 27 is Sakuranoan, so named because of a famous cherry tree that stood here earlier. The honzon is an 11-faced Kannon.


Just a short distance away is temple 26, Amida-ji.  Like Anyoji, it also claims to have been founded by Gyoki and revived in the 17th century.


The previous post was on temples 22 and 23.


Wednesday, October 18, 2023

Buried Houses of Mount Unzen Disaster

 


Not far from the Unzen Disaster Museum is yet another memorial of the volcanic disaster from the early 1990's.


A series of houses buried under meters of material with often just their roofs showing.


These houses were buried by what is called "lahar", a kind of mudflow comprised of a slurry of pyroclastic debris, ash, rocks, etc combined with rain after a volcanic eruption.


In the eruption of 1792 a massive landslide caused enough material to flow into the Ariake Sea that it caused a megatsunami, but here the flow was much slower and everybody had safely been evacuated.


One group of houses has had a roof built over it to make a museum.


The previous post was on the architecturally intriguing Unzen Disaster Museum.


Tuesday, October 17, 2023

Nakayama Shrine

 


It is said that the torii at Nakayama Shrine is unique. At the time of my visit i didn't notice, but now I can see it.


An Ox statue usually signifies Tenjin, the deified spirit of Sugawara Michizane, and he is not one of the main kami enshrined here, but there must be a secondary Tenjin shrine.


Nakayama Shrine is located north of Tsuyama in the area of Ichinomiya, so named because the shrine was the ichinomiya, highest-ranked shrine, in Mimasaka Province.


The Shinmon gate was relocated here from Tsuyama Castle when the castle was dismantled in the early Meiji Period.


Nakayama Shrine was founded in 707. For much of its history it was known as Chuzen Shrine.


The three main kami enshrined are Kagamitsukuri no kami, Ame no nukado no kami, and Ishikori-dome no mikoto, with the first and third of these being associated wit mirrors. In the meiji period the names were changed but then changed back after 1946.


The shrine was destroyed by the Amago Clan in 1533 when they invaded and took over the territory.


Amago Haruhisa rebuilt the shrine in 1559.


The main buildings date from this time and are considered to be nakayama-zukuri, a style unique to the immediate vicinity.


The previous post was Tsuyama Snapshots, photos taken on my way to the shrine.


A large sacred keyaki tree, zelkova in English, is said to be 800 years old. It has a trunk diameter of 8 meters.