Wakamiya Hachimangu & Chosokabe Motochika

 

The southern approach to Wakamiya Hachimangu Shrine in Nagahama, Kochi is through a long narrow ark, Chinjunomri.

Some way along the path you pass a huge statue of the samurai warlord Motochika Chosokabe, a hero to many in Shikoku.

For any of you who have walked the Shikoku pilgrimage, you will be well aware of Chosokabe as he destroyed a large number of the pilgrimage temples in his "unification" of Shikoku.

In 1560, as a young man under his warlord father, he took part in his first battle to attack nearby Nagahama Castle. On the eve of battle he camped in the grounds of Wakamiya Shrine and spent the night praying for victory.

Just north of here at the base of the mountain where Nagahama Castle stood is Sekkeiji Temple, the family temple of Motochika, and next door is Hata Shrine enshrining Motochika. His grave is also here.

After succeeding his father, Motochika spent ten years winning control over all of Tosa province.

He then spent 15 years taking over almost the whole of Shikoku but was finally undone by Hideyoshi.

The shrine was established in 1185 to protect the area which was land belonging to the Rokujo Wakamiya Hachimangu established in Kyoto by Monamoto Yoritomo, the first Kamakura Shogun.

It was established as a branch of Iwashimizu Hachimangu, the shrine south of Kyoto that two-thirds of all Hachiman shrines trace their origin to.

Hachiman had been adopted by the Minamoto as their tutelary deity and so was very popular among samurai.

After Chosokabe's military success following prayers here, this shrine became particularly renowned for prayers for victory.

The architecture here is unique, and said to have been designed by Chosokabe himself.

When seen in plan view is is said to resemble a dragonfly, considered a victorious and auspicious insect for samurai.

There are numerous secondary shrines within the grounds including a Tenjin Shrine which they list as enshrining Amenomikumari, a female kami connected to estuaries and irrigation. They mention also Sugawara Michizane.

There is also a Kojin Shrine, a Misa Shrine, a Sanja Shrine, and a Hayatosha.

The previous post in this series exploring things seen and encountered between the temples on the Shikoku Ohenro pilgrimage was the nearby museum to Ryoma Sakamoto.

Kurokami Shrine

 

I came down Mount Kurokami along a walking trail and as it got closer to the base passed though an old, Hizen-style torii, indicating this was the route used to reach the shrine at the peak.

There was another, slightly smaller torii where the trail emerged from the trees into the countryside. According to the sign it was built in the late 18th century.

Not far away I reached the entrance to Kurokami Shrine. Technically this is Lower Kurokami Shrine, and the one on top of the mountain the Upper Kurokami Shrine.

The approach to the shrine passes over a small bridge. This was the ancient and traditional way of purifying before entering shrine space. passing over running water. If you look at many of the oldest shrines they all have this feature.

There were lots of people in suits and kimonos milling around, and several priests.

A Shinto wedding had just taken place. Shinto weddings are one of the many "traditions" that were either invented in the modern period or moved to within shrines in the modern period. Christian weddings have a much longer history in Japan than Shinto weddings.

The shrine is said to have been founded in ancient times, but the shrine history recognizes the huge impact Kumano Shugendo had on the shrine, including listing the Buddhas connected to it.

The upper shrine enshrines Izanami as well as Hayatama and Kotosaka. The secondary shrine at the top of the mountain is a Hakusan Shrine enshrining Izanagi.

Secondary shrines here at the lower shrine include a Tenjin, Taga, and a Konpira.

At the peak of its power, Kurokami had 50 branch  shrines. It was popular with samurai during the Warring States period and a yabusame event is held here once a year.

There is also a secondary shrine to Amaterasu, though I am certain that is very much a modern addition, as is the Ise-style architecture.

The previous post was on the giant cliff carving of Fudo high up on the mountain.

Mt. Ebisu Jisso-in Temple 5 Kyushu Fudo Myo pilgrimage

 

Jisso-in Temple is situated between  Reisenji Temple and Rokusho Shrine high in the mountains of the Kunisaki peninsula in northern Oita.

The three were all part of the same sacred site until the separation of Buddhas and Kami in 1868.

In the temple grounds stand two Jizo statues, one large, and one small. They are known as Mimi Jizo and local people pray to them for healing from illness.

As well as being number 5 on the Kyushu 36 temple Fudo Myo pilgrimage, it is number 15 on the Rokugo Manzan pilgrimage which closely approximates the ancient pilgrim route for yamabushi of the syncretic cult that combines Tendai esoteric Buddhism and  Usa Hachiman.

The honzon is a Fudo statue dated to 1787. Next door was the much larger original Rokusho Shrine site to which I turn next.

The previous post in this series on the Kyushu Fudo pilgrimage was Reisenji Temple next door.

Taikoiwa Fudoson Magaibutsu

 

The Taikoiwa Fudoson Magaibutsu is a massive cliff-carving of  Fudo Myo carved into a cliff face more than 400 meters above sea level on Mount Kurokami in Saga between Takeo and Arita.

The views down over rural Saga are stupendous.

Mount Kurokami was a center of Shugendo mountain worship since ancient times, though the carving was not made until 1948.

It is about 7 meters tall and at its base is a huge circular mirror.

Cliff carvings are rare in Japan, but the vast majority that do exist are found in nearby Oita.

The Kunisaki peninsula in Oita has many magaibutsu including the Kumano Mgaibutsu which includes another large Fudo. Further south around Usuki are some of the most exquisite magaibutsu in Japan.

The previous post was on the small temple just below the Fudoson.

Oni no Shitaburui Gorge

 

Oni no Shitaburui Gorge is a narrow gorge in the remote Chugoku mountains in the Okuizumo region of Shimane.

The Omaki River has cut the boulder-strewn gorge over millions of years as it heads downstream to join the Hii River.

For 2 kilometers a boardwalk allows visitors, including those  wheelchairs and baby strollers, to explore the views of this scenic gorge.

There are also other trails for those who want a slightly more rugged hike.

Many of the rock formations seen along the way have names, like Crying Demon, Cows Neck, Whale Rock.

Ancient myths tell of a beautiful princess who lived here and of a crocodile who fell in love with her. Attempting to woo her the crocodile headed up the river and the fearful princess filled the gorge with rocks to stop the crocodile's progress. In some versions told nowadays the crocodile has been changed into a shark.

As the valley widens the trail climbs up to the pedestrian suspension bridge 45 meters above the water from where great views can be head over the surrounding mountains as well as down the valley.

Near the parking lot at the bridge is a small cafe serving local specialties like boar-meat croquettes. From here there is a bus down to the nearest stations. Another parking lot is at the to end of the gorge.

It is possible to reach the gorge from the  Itohara Estate, about 1k from the middle section of the gorge.

The previous post in this series exploring Okuizumo was on the garden at the Sakurai Manor.

Taikoiwa Fudoji Temple

 

Fudo-ji is a small temple with a solitary building at about 400 meters above sea level on Mount Kurokami near Takeo and Arita in Saga.

I presume it is/was a sub-temple of  Saikomitsu-ji a little higher up the mountain that was a major Shugendo center in historical times.

Sometimes called Taikoiwa Fudoji, Taikoiwa is a rock outcropping above the temple. Such rock formations were attractive to yamabushi, Tendoiwa being one on top of the mountain with a shrine connected to a myth about a giant serpent.

On Taikoiwa is a carving of Fudo Myo and a path lined with statues leads from Fudoji up to the carving.

There was to be a big ceremony at the nearby Saikomitsu Temple the next day, so that is why many of the statues had fresh cut flowers.

Fudo-ji is nowadays an unmanned temple. Like many rural temples, the priest has gotten too old and no-one has replaced him.

Whereas major temples receive a hefty tax-free income from tourism, and urban temples can rely on the very lucrative funeral market, so many rural temples are now abandoned and often demolished.

Next up we will look at the magaibutsu, cliff carving, of Fudo.

In the previous post I showed some of the many Fudo Myo statues around the temple and along the path.