Omirokusama Shrine

 

Popular shrines will often have large numbers of objects left or donated by worshippers who either are praying for something, or giving thanks for something. Votive tablets, known as ema in Japanese, or even simple wooden torii gates like those found at many Inari shrines are common, as is leaving miniature statues.

At Omiroikusama Shrine in Tosa, Kochi you will find lots of ema, lots of torii, and literally thousands and thousands of miniature frogs.

Frog statues and figurines can be seen at quite a few temples. The word for frog, kaeru, also means "return" and so is often used a symbol meaning safe return. Such homophones are quite common in Japan as the Japanese language is composed of relatively few sounds.

However the frogs here have nothing to do with returning, rather the frogs skin reminds people of warts, and at Omiroku Shrine the tradition is that you pray here for relief from warts, and if successful then you come back and leave a small frog.

The fame of Omirokusama Shrine has spread and people from all over Japan make the journey to Shikoku to pray at the shrine and nowadays a new twist has been added as the idea that cancer is a form of internal warts has taken hold.

The origin of the shrine lies in 1899 when a local farmer dug up a sacred object of some kind. Most sources say a"shrine", but it is not clear exactly what that means.

He took it home and placed it in his storehouse. Later he and his family became plagued with warts and other skin ailments. He consulted a Shinto priest who told him the kami was upset at being moved and the man should return the "shrine" to its original spot.

This he did, and so the shrine began. The rest, as they say, is history. Incidentally, Miroku is the Japanese name for Maitreya, a Buddhist bodhisattva known as the Future Buddha.

Though tiny, this is a fascinating site to visit. Very much a creation of "folk" and having nothing to do with imperial shinto, the influence of Buddhism is also very "folk".

When walking from Tanemaji Temple, number 34 on the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage, to Kiyotakiji Temple, number 35, Omirokusama Shrine is located on the riverbank immediately after crossing the Niyodo River on Route 56. The previous post in this series exploring the sights found along the routes between the temples was on the walk to Tanemaji Temple from Wakamiya Hachimangu.

Ryuzenji Temple 107 Kyushu Pilgrimage

 

Ryuzenji Temple is located in an urban area of Itoshima, the area to the southwest of Fukuoka City that was very powerful politically in prehistoric Japan.

It is a fairly recent temple being founded in the late 1950's, though I can find no information other than that.

The honzon is a Shogun Jizo which seems to be a medieval Japanese version of the bodhisatvva.

It has a strong connection to Mount Atago near Kyoto and is often depicted riding a boar. Perhaps the most well-known one is the one carved by Kobo Daishi himself, the honzon of temple 5 on the Shikoku Pilgrimage, Jizoji Temple.

The new stone Nio guarding the driveway are of the now common style. Im guessing cut from the same data by computer as the other identical copies.

There are several statues around the grounds including a set of six Jizo and the almost obligatory standing Kobo Daishi.

There were a couple of Fudo statues, always nice to see.

As well there is a small rocky area with a water source for ascetic purification under cold water.

Such sites are normally found in the mountains with real waterfalls and are especially connected to yamabushi and Shugendo..

A statue of Fudo and also Kurikara, his sword wrapped with a dragon, are commonly found at such places.

This was my first stop on day 75 of my 77 day walk around Kyushu on the Shingon Kyushu 108 temple pilgrimage. The previous temple was Shinkoin, temple 106.

Kyu Sentoji Temple

 

The "kyu" in the name means "former" as it refers to the site where the temple once stood.

Down the mountain on the main road is the new Sentoji Temple, built, I believe after 1968 when a forest fire detroyed the last vestiges of the original temple.

Once the grandest of all the Rokugo Manzan temples in the central Kunisaki Peninsula area, some sources also suggest it was the first to be built.

A Torii tands on the path to the ruins, typical of the syncretic cult that existed here with Nio guardians at shrines, and torii at temples.

A pair of Nio stanf guard at what was the Goma Hall of the temple.

Sento-ji, as well as 27 other temples, are said to have been established in 718 by legendary monk Ninmon. This is of course legend, as records from this time are minimal, but Ninmon was a historal figure and his grave, and also the cave where he is said to have died, is a little higher up the mountain next to the Okunoin.

The temple was mostly detroyed, probably in 1560, when Otomo Sorin fought against and subdued the armed monks of Usa Hachimangu.

The Rokugo Manzan cult had strong connections with Usa Hachiman, being a Tendai-Hachiman cult primarily.

Obviously something continued to function here until the forest fire of 1968.

From the main temple site a path leads through the forest and up the mountain to the Okunoin.

Like most such places here, it is built into a cave. There are other caves with statuary and the cemetery that has Ninmons grave. 

I was here at the start of day 4 of my second walk around Kyushu, this time following the Kyushu Fudo Myo Pilgrimage. For this first week I was roughly following the Kunisakihanto Minemichi Long Trail which closely follows the ancient yamabushi pilgrimage from Usa Hachimangu and then around the Rokugo manzan sites.

The previous post was on the Rokugo Shrine in Ebisudani.

Shigaku Kojin Shrine Okuizumo

 

Shigaku Kojin Shrine in Sajiro, a small rural settlement in the mountains of Okuizumo is curious indeed, having a modern 8-storey concrete pagoda and a modern footbridge crossing the road.

In 1986 it was rebuilt by Yoshio Tane, a local man who went on to great success as the founder of Paris Miki, a major chain of retail glasses stores with branches all across the country, even, until recently, one here in his home village.

I believe the shrine is now its own "religious corporation" and was visited by Yoshio when he was a child. I am not sure what the pagoda is all about as my understanding is a pagoda is a kind of reliquary and memorial.

The kami is said to be a kami of children's learning and ambition.

A gold-painted bust of him was erected in the shrine ground on the 100th anniversary of his birth in 2005

As well as the shrine he also built a modern community centre on the site of his childhood home and opened a natural history museum that includes a hotel and so offers a genuine "Night In The Museum" experience

Tsukushi Korokan

 

The Tsukushi Korokan was a government lodgings and reception site in ancient Japan for diplomatic visitors from China and Korea that was in operation during the Asuka, Nara, and Heian Periods.

Most official intercourse between Japan and mainland Asia came through northern Kyushu, the closest point between them. Dazaifu, a little further inland from what is now Fukuoka City, was the western "capital" for the central government.

The Korokan was meant to impress visitors and also acted as a kind of immigration control centre. Later when visitors were more for trade than diplomacy the merchants would stay in the Korokan for months. Also, Japanese monks and diplomats heading to Asia would also stay here. During the 11th century, it was abandoned and disappeared from history.

The site of the Korokan was discovered in 1987 during construction work on one of the stadiums in Maizuru Park, the former site of the huge Fukuoka Castle. A museum showing some of the excavations, items discovered, and a partial reconstruction of one of the buildings is open in the park with free entry.

I visited on a rest and recovery day on the 74th day of my walk around Kyushu. The previous post was on the Fukuoka Castle ruins.