Thursday, November 14, 2024

Kumano Shrine Yokohama Fukuoka

 


This Kumano Shrine is located on an 80 meter high hill on the south side of the river mouth that was home to Imazu Port, a port linked with trade with Asia in ancient times.


The area is named after the long beach nearby, Yokohama, not the now famous Yokohama up near Tokyo.


Beside the steps leading up to the shrine is a small Inari shrine, and then near the top a Yakushi-do.


Other than this being a branch of the famous Kumano Sanzan in Wakayama, I can find on information about its history.


The site of tye shrine used to be a manufacturing site of stone axes in te early Yayoi Period, and axes from this site have been found around northern Kyushu, indicating early trade.


The previous post was on the Shisho Shrine across on the other side of the river mouth.


Tuesday, November 12, 2024

Hiroshima Castle

 


Hiroshima is one of the better-known Japanese cities to people outside Japan because of its unfortunate history, but the city did not begin to be formed until after the construction of Hiroshima Castle.


Situated on a sandbar island in the middle of the wide-open delta of the Ota River, the area was renamed Hiroshima by the great warlord Mori Terumoto after he chose the site for his new castle.


From his base in Koriyama Castle about 45 kilometers north of Hiroshima in the Chugoku Mountains, Mori Motonari oversaw the rise of his clan to dominance of almost all of the Chugoku region and even part of Kyushu.


His grandson, Terumoto, took over the clan following Motonari's death, and after initially opposing Hideyoshi eventually became his vassal and one of Hideyoshi's Council of Five Elders.


Realizing that his old base, Koriyama Castle, was no longer suitable as a modern headquarters he chose the site for his new castle in 1588 and construction began the next year. He moved into the castle in 1591 but it would not be completed until 1599.


Hiroshima Castle is a Flatland-style castle with a moat system that included the river as a major outer defense, and a wide inner moat. The inner moat remains, but the other moats were filled in during the early 20th century.


Following the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600 Tokugawa Ieyasu stripped the Mori Clan of most of their lands except for their most westerly holdings in what is now Yamaguchi.


Control of the castle was given to Fukushima Masanori, but he was removed 19 years later and then the Asano Clan controlled the domain for more than two centuries until the Meiji Period.


Most castles were dismantled following the Meiji Restoration,  but Hiroshima Castle wasn't, and like many of the castles that were kept by the new government it became a military base. In fact it was the General Headquarters for the Sino-Japanese War of 1894-5.


It continued to be a military base all during WWII, but being less than a kilometer from the epicenter of the atomic blast, all the wooden structures were destroyed.


In 1958 the tenshu was reconstructed in concrete, though it may possibly be replaced with a wooden one in the future.


In 1993 the main gate and several yagura of the Ninomaru section of the castle were rebuilt using traditional materials and methods.


The Ninomaru structure and the tenshu both contain exhibits relating to the castle's history.


The rest of the grounds are now a park that contains three trees that survived the atomic blast. Also, the Gokoku Shrine was moved to within the castle.


The previous castle I posted on was Fukuoka Castle.


Sunday, November 10, 2024

Along the Gonokawa from Shikaga to Imbara

 


Saturday October 2nd, 2021, and day 2 of my walk along the Gonokawa River to its source winds down.

After my detour to visit the Kannon Waterfall, I backtrack to the river and pass by Shikaga, once a stop on the defunct Sanko Line railway.


Much of the village is on the slopes, and the main road skirts it along the river.


The traditional riverboats, flat-bottomed like punts, were made of cedar, but now aluminum, plywood, and sometimes fiberglass are used.


The next couple of kilometers up to Imbara where the Nigori river joins the Gonokawa and Route 261, the main road along the river across on the other bank, veers away from the river and heads up the Nigori River towards Hiroshima.


In the photo below, the patch of new concrete on the opposite bank marks where the railway bridge crossed over the Nigori. While almost all the track, and the vast majority of the bridges of the rail line are still there, this bridge has been removed. I suspect because it offered a walking shortcut to Imbara.


Nearby is an abandoned hilltop park that had a small Inari Shrine. It was not well maintained twenty years ago when I first visited and now seems completely overgrown.



Saturday, November 9, 2024

Shisho Shrine Imazu

 


Shisho Shrine is located on the waters edge on the protected side of a headland in Imazu Bay.


The komainu, lanterns etc all seem to be of very recent origin.


One particularly huge tree stands in from of it.


Imazu was a port used in trade with mainland Asia in ancient times, for a while supplanting nearby Hakata in this role.


It is said that the shrine was established to protect the foreign ships and sailors who arrived in Imazu, though it would seem more likely to spiritually protect from such visitors, as disease and disaster was thought to come from "outside".


As the name suggests, four kami are enshrined here: Amaterasu, Hachiman, Sumiyoshi, and Kasuga. Hachiman and Sumiyoshi were originally cults from northern Kyushu but were very much "national" kami by this time.


Friday, November 8, 2024

Kyorinbo in Autumn Splendour

 


Thursday November 24th, 2016, day 39 of my walk along the Saigoku Pilgrimage, and I descended from Kannonshoji Temple in the mountains near Omihachiman in Shiga.


I visited Kyorinbo, a famous spot for Fall Colours and as I had come down the mountain I entered the property through the rear entrance.


Kyorinbo is a Tendai Temple, though it doesn't look like a temple.


It is said the temple was founded in 605 by none other than Shotoku Taishi.


A small statue of Kannon said to be carved by him is the honzon of the temple and is enshrined in a small cave in the grounds.


The temple was destroyed during the Warring States Period but was rebuilt in 1585.


The Shoin, Main Gate, and Storehouse all date from the early Edo Period and are thatched.


The Shoin has two gardens, one to the south, and one to the west.


The one to the south is called the Fudaraku Garden. It contains a path that runs to the main hall and also the cave holding the Kannon statue.


It is also the garden where most of the maple trees are planted. It was created in the Muromachi Period (1338 to 1573). 


The garden to the west is attributed to Kobori Enshu and is believed to date from the early Edo Period.


It is a pond garden with a hillside of moss-covered stones.


Kyorinbo has the nickname of Stone Temple.


The Enshu Garden features a "dry waterfall" and the pond contains the classic Crane and Turtle stone arrangements.


The garden can be appreciated any time of the year, but with the Fall colours it becomes ablaze with colour.


For much of the year, the garden is closed but opens on the weekends  and holidays in the Spring and daily during November.


In November the garden is illuminated and open in the evenings.


The temple was abandoned and derelict in the late twentieth century but a monk almost singlehandedly restored it.


The closest train  is Azuchi Station where taxis and rental bicycles can be found.


Another Enshu garden I covered recently was the one at Raikyuji Temple.