Monday, March 31, 2025

Monjusenji Temple 4 Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage

 


Monjusenji is temple number 4 on the Kyushu Fudo Myoo Pilgrimage.


Located high in the remote mountains of the Kunisaki Peninsula, it lies to the NE of the highest point, Mount Futago.


It is part of the ancient Shugendo cultic system known as Rokugo Manzan, a mix of Usa Hachiman and Tendai Buddhism. Monjusenji is number 25 on the ancient Kunisaki Shugendo Pilgrimage.


However, whereas most of the temples associated with Rokugo Manzan claim their origin in the early 8th century with a monk named Ninmon, Monjusenji is older and claims to have been founded in the mid 7th century by the legendary En no Gyoja.


This makes it the oldest of what are now known as the Rokugo Manzan temples.


Halfway up the steps is the first group of buildings, and here can be found the Fudo statue that is part of the Kyushu Fudo Pilgrimage.


There are several other statues and altars in this small group of buildings and in fron is a very tall, stone stupa, aboiut 8 meters high and possibly the tallest in all Japan.


Further up the steps is the main hall, the Monju-do, enshrining Monju Bosatsu. Monjusenji is considered one of the top 3 Monju temples in Japan.


Known as the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, Monju is often prayed to for academic success.


Monju is often depicted riding a shishi or lion.


A sacred spring flows from the cave behind the main hall and the area around thetemple is filled with huge, ancient trees and towering rock formations.


6 Jizo statues.


A group of ema votive plaques, many asking for academic success. The second photo below an ema of Monju Bosatsu.


In a cave two statues of En no Gyoja, the legendary founder of the temple, is srrounded by numerous Fudo Myo statues.


Below is a statue of Gensan Daishi, a name of Ryogen the great Tendai priest of the 10th century. Also referred to as Tsuno Daishi and Oni Daishi, his likeness is commonly found on ofuda from temples to protect against misfortune.


Below is a statue of Monju Bosatsu, but this is not the honzon. The honzon is a "secret Buddha" and only opened every 12 years, in the Year of the Rabbit.


Below are examples of the unique style of masks found in the Kunisaki area.


Below is a goma ceremony being performed. Usually done on the 25th of each month, I was visiting on January 3rd, so I suspect special goma are performed for the new year.


Below a few of the rakan statues in the rock face near the main hall.


Saturday, March 29, 2025

Hayashi Kumano Shrine. The First Kumano Shrine?

 


This was a completely unexpected site I visited while heading down towards the next pilgrimage temple, Rendaiji. From the first torii up to the main shrine buildings was quite a distance and around the shrine was a lot of open space.


I now believe this area was until around 1868 filled with many Buddhist structures, the three-storey pagoda remaining.


The arrangement of the shrine was also unusual, with a long line of 13 hondens in 4 structures.


Originally called Kumano Junisha Gongen, and renamed Kumano Shrine in 1868, the junisha refers to the 12 kami enshrined in the line of hondens, the 12 kumano kami plus a local protective kami.


According to the founding legend, in 699 the famed mystic and legendary founder of Shugendo was exiled to Izu. A group of 5 of his disciples carried the spirit of what is now Hongu Taisha shrine in Kumano and eventually, in 701, decided upon this spot to found a new shrine. This is why the shrine now claims to be the very first "Kumano" shrine.


The five disciples also founded 5 temples in the area and this became a major shugendo centre with two other sites in the area for a Shin Kumano.


The shrine temple complex went through cycles of destruction like most major religious centres and the oldest remaining structure is the one called Second Hall. It was rebuilt in 1492 and is a National Important Cultural Property.


The remaining structures date back to a rebuild by the Okayama  Daimyo Ikeda Mitsumasa in 1647.


The  kami are listed as Izanami, Izanagi, Amaterasu, Ninigi, Amenoshihomimi, Hikohohodemi, Ugayafukiaeizu, Haniyamahime, Kagutsuchi, Wakamusubi, and Mizuhanome.


Among the secondary shrines in the grounds are Susanoo and Ichikishima.


In 1868 the shrine was separated from all the temple structures and renamed Kumano Shrine.


In 1872 Shugendo was outlawed until 1945.




Sunday, March 23, 2025

Akashi Castle

 


Akashi castle is an Edo Period castle built to protect the approaches to Osaka from the west.


Most of the Tozama Lords, the daimyo that had fought against the Tokugawa and were therefore still considered a possible threat, lived in the west, and so the Tokugawa placed allies in strategic positions around the country.


At the entrance to what is now a huge park in front of the castle is a statue of Ikujiro Nakabe, a local politician from the Meiji era who had nothing to do with the castle. The statue was erected in 1928 but was subsequently melted down for weapons during WWII and then remade later. As well as being involved in national politics he also founded fishing companies and whaling companies that operated in the Antarctic.


The castle was constructed between 1615 and 1617 and took about a year to build. Thanks to the One Domain One Castle decree of 1615 many castles were dismantled and come of the materials and structures were recycled in the construction of Akashi Castle


It was quite a large castle with a total of twenty yagura, towers, and 27 gates.


Within the park are several gardens that are now named the Musashi Gardens after the famed samurai swordsman Miyamoto Musashi. He was involved in the design of the castle and the surrounding area, and several gardens in nearby temples are attributed to him, but these gardens in the park were named after him after a very successful TV drama series on Musashi.


A base for a Tenshu, keep, was  constructed but no keep was built.


The main structures were 4 3-storey towers on each corner of the inner bailey.


The castle was built by Ogasawara Tadazane, but the Ogasawara were transferred to the Kokura Domain in 1632.


A succession of Fudai Daimyo, vassals of the Tokugawara before Sekigahara, or relatives of the Tokugawa, were given the Akashi Domain after the Ogasawara.


The castle was mostly demolished in 1874, but the two corner turrets on the south remained and are now Important Cultural Properties.


A large park and sports facilities now occupy most of the site. The stadium is built over what was probably a garden by Miyamoto Musashi.


Many events and festivals take place in the park.


It is a popular spot both for Cherry Blossom and Autumn Leaves viewing.


It is free to enter and a ten alk from JR Akashi Station.