Kyushu Pilgrimage Day 8 Nakatsu to Usa

Sunday, January 6th, 2013, was going to be a fine day weatherwise, though when I started walking it was still dark. I had recently spent a few days exploring Nakatsu, so today I just headed straight to the first pilgrimage temple, stopping in at the local shrine as I passed it.

Yesterday had not included any pilgrimage temples, the first of such days, but today would include a total of four. From Nakatsu I headed inland to a mountain used by ascetics before backtracking and taking a fairly main road east towards Usa.

The main road was fairly uninteresting, much of it being newer road that bypassed villages.

The final stop of the day was across from the famous Usa Hachimangu at a temple that now housed many of the Buddhist treasures removed from the shrine complex when all the pagodas and other temple structures were removed in the 19th Century. Last day of this leg so I headed back home for a month before starting the next section of my walk around Japan.

Ocho on Osaki-Shimojima Island

Ocho, now known as Yutakamachiocho, is a small port on the NW coast of Osaki Shimojima in the Aki Nada chain of islands in the Seto Inland Sea.

In the past when the Inland Sea was the superhighway of Japan it must have been quite a busy and prosperous place, but since the advent of powered ships and then the railways and finally the roads it lost its prosperity and is now little more than a fishing village.

In the afternoon of my second day walking along the Aki Nada Islands via a series of bridges that connect them to the mainland, it was from here that I needed to take a small ferry across to the bigger Osaki Kamijima Island.

I like these kind of places. Slow quiet, and absolutely without pretensions, they are to me typical Japan, which is after all,  thousands of islands with countless little coastal communities. Though I often read that growing rice was the base of Japanese tradition, I think living by, from, and on the sea, is a stronger historical tradition.

Nakatsu Sunset

At various times in my life I have lived in places where I could view either the sunrise or sunset. For some years before moving to Japan I lived where I could see both.

For the last 14 years I have lived in a narrow valley and so see neither, unless I am off travelling somewhere, so apologies if these pics are boring to you

I approached the castle town of Nakatsu as the sun was setting at the end of my seventh day walking the Kyushu Pilgrimage.

Not outstandingly spectacular, but novel enough for me to enjoy.....

Murakami Pirate Castle

It was late afternoon as I crossed over the bridge onto Innoshima Island on the first day of my walk along the Shimanami Kaido. I stepped up my pace as there was somewhere I wanted to visit before it closed for the day.

The Murakami were a clan of samurai who for a long time, until Hideyoshi moved them, controlled the waters of the Inland Sea from a series of bases on the islands.

Called pirates, or a navy, depending on who wrote the history, Innoshima was one of their main bases and there were numerous fortifications on the island, though the current structures are far more grand and substantial than anything that existed back then.

There is a small museum and it is possible for visitors to put on some samurai armour for photo ops.

Yasuura Shrine

Yasuura Shrine seems like it was a fairly major shrine in the past. Founded in 938 on the waterfront, aound the end of the 12tch Century it was moved a little inland to its current location in a wide, wooded hill.

The three kami enshrined here are Ikutsuhikone no mikoto, Amatsuhikone no mikoto, & Kumanokusubi no mikoto, 3 of the 5 males born when Susano chewed up and spat out Amaterasu's jewels.

There is a line of 13 secondary shrines that were moved here in 1912 when the government closed down half the shrines in the country.

There was some evidence of recent ritual activity for the new year, but being somewhat removed from the center of Yukuhashi it lacked the lanterns and banners at other shrines I had visited that morning.

The Masks at Nobusatohachimangu Shrine

The Masks at Nobusatohachimangu Shrine

Towards the end of my second day walking the Iwami Kannon Pilgrimage I was coming into the outskirts of Oda City and stopped in at the Hachimangu Shrine in Nobusato village.

One thing I am always on the lookout for at shrines are masks, and, like many village shrines in rural Japan, this one was not locked so I could go in and look around and found quite a few masks. The mask in the first photo was nice, but not unusual. The second was an unusual style that I had seen several times in the past few days and is specific to this area.

The next one was a standard Tengu mask done in Iwami kagura style, almost exactly like ones I myself have made, but the next one was back to the local style and is, I believe, a karasu tengu.

The final pair were in standar Iwami kagura style and were the old married couple, the mother and father of Kushinada Hime, the maiden rescued from the serpent Yamata Orochi by Susano.

Fudo Myo-O at Tateyama Reijo

After crossing the rivers on my way to the coast from Yukuhashi I spied this line of statues leading up the hillside.

The sign said it  was number 61 on the "new" 88 sites Kyushu Pilgrimage. The 88 temple Kyushu Pilgrimage I was walking was founded in 1985, so I guess this one must be much newer.

It is not a registered temple of any kind, rather a site used by Yamabushi for ascetic practises. There was one small building with a large altar with this Fudo enshrined.

Several other Fudo statues were around the grounds too... both this large stone Fudo and the small Jizo had fresh new year offerings.

Giant Temple Lanterns

Paper lanterns are ubiquitous in Japan with white or red being the most common colors. Small red lanterns hanging outside an establishment typically suggests that  alcohol is served inside.

Temples also feature lanterns, with very large, red ones being found at some temples. These examples were all found while I was walking the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage this year.

The first photo was taken in the main hall of Kokawadera Temple in Wakayama Prefecture. The second is at Sefukuji Temple in the mountain in the south of Osaka Prefecyure, and the third is at Ishiyamadera temple at the southern end of Lake Biwa in Shiga.

The fourth is also in Shiga, at Miidera Temple, and the final photo is at Imakumano Kannonji Temple in Kyoto.

Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 10..... a morning of shrines

Friday September 23rd, 2011, the tenth day of my walk along the Shikoku Pilgrimage and I was still in Tokushima.

By 8:30 I had finished visiting Yakuoji, temple number 23 of the pilgrimage and I spent the rest of the morning heading down route 55 towards Mugi.

Along the way I passed numerous shrines some small, some a little grander, and I stopped in to check them out.

I didn't bother taking notes so I don't know their names nor the kami enshrined therein. Almost all the pilgrims I encountered on my walk just walked past these shrines, concentrating on reaching the next pilgrimage temple, but I believe in the old days pilgrims would have done what I was doing, and stop in at every sacred site along the route.

Kasuga Shrine, Yukuhashi

On my way out of Yukuhashi, heading towards the coast, I stopped in at a small local shrine whose entrance beckoned me.

Shrines are great stopping places on walks.... a quiet space away from traffic, and often with something to see in terms of statuary, carvings etc.

This one is a Kasuga Shrine, a branch of the famous Kasuga Taisha up in Nara, and therefore enshrining the same gods.

It has obviously been rebuilt quite recently. One thing I am always on the lookout for at shrines are the komainu, as their designs are quite varied. This shrine had quite nice elephant carvings.