Disappeared Japan 5 Ureshino Museum of Hidden Treasures part 1

 

Just after crossing from Takeo into Ureshino I reached the place I had made a 15 kilometers detour to see, the Ureshino Hihokan.

With a large, golden statue of Kannon, the "goddess of mercy", flanked by two Nio guardians, one might think it was a Buddhist temple..... the modern concrete structure certainly had elements of traditional architecture,....

But sitting to one side of the entrance was a 4 metre long wooden phallus that indicated the true content of the building.

A Hihokan is a "museum of hidden treasures", and is a euphemism for a kind of museum devoted to sex... Hihokan were mostly built in the 1980's, and are mostly associated with hot spring resorts which enjoyed a boom at that time. However, hihokan are disappearing as quickly as they appeared, and this one was due to close down a month after I visited.

Actually, a large part of the exhibits were religious in nature. Fertility shrines can still be found in Japan featuring phalli, although the number is much reduced from historical times and the introduction of "Victorian" prudishness.

There were many replicas of such shrines. I myself seek out these vestiges of traditional culture and am still finding them hidden away on my explorations around the backcountry of Japan. There are a couple of big ones that are very famous, but they are not really typical. The typical fertility shrine is quite small but well-visited. A few weeks earlier on this pilgrimage, I visited Shibatatehime Shrine in Kumamoto.

Praying for a baby is the most common point of many of these "fertility" shrines, but some exist for other reasons. Up near Matsue is one where the big wooden phallus was prayed to for the relief of sexually transmitted diseases. I recently revisited another in Fukuoka, a very popular shrine, that is famous for answering prayers for sexual "vigor". A kind of spiritual viagra if you will.

There were a few examples of Shunga on display. Shunga was erotic and pornographic woodblock prints that were enormously popular during the Edo Period but which were suppressed and ignored, in Japan at least, until relatively recently following the aforementioned adoption of Victorian prudishness in the Meiji Period.

There was a small display of a variety of sexual paraphernalia like chastity belts, bondage gear, sex toys, etc, but the most intriguing, and to my mind wonderfully kitsch, were the animatronic displays that no longer worked, which I will cover in the second part......

The previous post in this series on the Kyushu Pilgrimage was the nearby Kifune Shrine. The previous post in the series of Disappeared Japan was Space World.

Ureshino Hihokan Part 2

Higashikawanobori Kifune Shrine

 

Kawanobori is the last settlement along the old Nagasaki Kaido in Takeo before it comes into Ureshino. In Higashikawanobori I was surprised to find a Kifune Shrine, a branch of the famous Kifune Shrine in the mountains north of Kyoto. Banners were raised telling that a matsuri was in session.

Kifune Shrine enshrines Tamayorihime, the mother of mythical emperor Jimmu, and is said to be a kami of water and rain, so it was not surprising that this Kifune Shrine backs onto the river rather than up against the mountainside like most shrines.

Architecturally it was almost identical to the previous shrine, Uchida Tenmangu,  with a pavillion-style main hall and also a large sacred Camphor tree. The ceiling of the main hall also was covered in small paintings.

The original Kifune Shrine near Kyoto is famous for two things. One is that it is considered the origin of ema, the votive plaques found at most shrines and some temples. According to the story, the Emperor used to donate a horse for sacrifice to the shrine, a white horse to pray for rain to stop, and a black horse to make rain. Later a painting of a horse was used, and these became what are now ema.

The other things strongly associated with Kifune Shrine is in many senses a kind of Japanese voodoo called Ushi no Toki Mairi which involves nailing a straw figure to a tree at the shrine. The story has complex roots but is mostly known through the Noh play Kanawa.

While I was visiting a ceremony was taking place. The men taking part were dressed in everyday work clothes so I suspect it was some kind of Spring agricultural ritual.

The previous post was on Uchida Tenmangu.

Uchida Tenmangu

 

Mid February, and the plum trees lining the approach to Uchida Tenmangu are about to burst into bloom. Tenmangu shrines often have plum trees as they were a favorite topic for ancient Japanese poets and scholars like Sugawara Michizane who is enshrined here.

The bamboo attached to the torii would have been fresh when put up for the new year. The torii are Hizen-style as this is still within what used to be Hizen. Uchida is a small settlement in between Takeo and Ureshino in Saga.

I am heading up the Rokkaku River along National Route 34 which roughly follows the old Nagasaki Kaido.

There is no info on the shrine, although there are a lot of Tenmangu shrines in this part of Kyushu. There is a massive old camphor tree that suggests that the shrine has been here for some centuries.. although the pavilion-style main building has been recently rebuilt. Its ceiling is covered in small square paintings, but its too dark to get a good photo.

I'm on day 58 of my walk along the Kyushu Pilgrimage, though I am making quite a detour in order to visit a site that will be closing down in a few weeks....

The previous post was the nearby Otsubo Quarry.

Otsubo Quarry

 

Quarries are a common site along the country roads of Japan where I do all my walking.

Not long after leaving Yumeginga I passed by the rather large Otsubo Quarry.

There are many kinds of quarry now in Japan. On Shodoshima I passed by a historical quarry where stones for constructing Osaka Castle were quarried. Not far from my home, up on Lake Shinji, is Kimachi, where sandstone is quarried for the production of stone lanterns, statues etc.

There are some massive limestone quarries that produce some of Japan's favorite natural resources... cement..... and I suspect the most common type of quarry are the ones producing gravel and aggregate to be added to cement to make concrete. Down river from us is one such quarry.

The Otsubo quarry, named after the man who founded it in the 1950's, seems to be producing another form of crushed stone that is used in road beds, stabilizing slopes, and other forms of civil engineering.

The previous post on day 58 of my walk around Kyushu was the Saga Prefecture Space & Science Museum.

Yumeginga Saga Prefecture Museum of Space & Science

 

Yumeginga is the name given to the Space & Science Museum in Saga Prefecture.

It is located on a hilltop outside the town of Takeo, famous for, among other things, its hot springs.

The museum and its landscaping were designed by AXS Satow, the company set up to continue the legacy of Takeo Satow who died in 1972. The museum was completed in 1999.

It is said that the design represents a spacecraft taking off from a spaceport.

There are five main areas, Space, Earth, Saga, an area of interactive exhibits, and a kids area. A 200-seat planetarium is housed in a spherical structure.

I was here the first time on the 58th day of my walk along the Kyushu Pilgrimage but couldnt wait until opening time to explore inside, but most reviews are very favorable

The previous post in the series was about the many shrines I visited on day 57.

Yurahime "Squid" Shrine Oki Islands

 

Yurahime Shrine was the highest-ranked shrine in all of the Oki Islands more than  1,000 years ago.

It is located onNishinoshima Island on Ika Yose No Hama which translates as "squid gathering beach" which explains the figures in the shallow water in front of the shrine.

The main deity enshrined here is Yurahime no mikoto, a female deity of fishing, and she is not enshrined at any other shrine.

According to the story, she was in a small boat and while trailing a hand in the water a squid bit her.

To atone and apologize, the squid decided to gather in the shallow waters of the bay every year and allow the islanders to scoop them up.

Some sources say the shrine was originally on Chiburijima and when the shrine moved here the squid followed. Some sources also say the goddess was returning from having visited Izumo Taisha.

It is said that the catch of squid is very much reduced from what it was in former times. The shrine is a popular spot for viewing cherry blossoms.

The previous post in this series on the Oki Islands was the ferry journey between Chibu and Nishinoshima.

Wakayama Prefectural Museum

 

Wakayama Prefectutal Museum is a history museum devoted to the history of what is now Wakayama.

It is kind of tucked away behind the more well-known Wakayama Museum of Modern Art, just south of the castle and park.

It was designed by the same architect as the Modern Art Museum, the famous Kisho Kurokawa. One of the founders of the Metabolist movement, he is probably most well known for his Nakagin Capsule Tower.

The Prefectural Museum uses a lot of glass and so is light and airy. I did enjoy taking some abstract interior shots.

The museum covers prehistory and the history of Koyasan, the Kumano region, the ruling clan of the Edo Period, and also covers "folk" history.

Prefectural museums are a mixed bag,.... some are really great, and some are quite weak and somewhat boring. As I left this one I was noticeably impressed with the range and quality of the displays and the also the low cost. 

I must admit that they had a nice collection of masks, and that always cheers me up.

The previous post in this series exploring Wakayama City was the Momijidani Teien Garden in the castle.